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Climbing at Milenecká hora

522 routes
166 areas
1–10 grades

Milenecká hora in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 520 routes – most on Milenci (the Lovers), with more on Alpská, Hrad, Hadí, Mošna and Krokodýl. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Milenecká hora has 522 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 166 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Google Waze
Milenci 24 routes Alpská 13 routes Hrad 12 routes Hadí 12 routes Mošna 12 routes Krokodýl 11 routes Cherubín 10 routes Trojník 10 routes Čtyři apoštolové 10 routes Přílba 9 routes Uhlířská 8 routes Tři bratři 8 routes Lesník 8 routes Řeřicha 7 routes Baloun 6 routes Vřesová 6 routes Kvarteto 6 routes Majka 5 routes Hvízdavý Dan 5 routes Rádža 5 routes Lidový vypravěč 5 routes Křídlo 5 routes Gondola 5 routes Mláďata 5 routes Bragliho věž 5 routes Citadela 5 routes Dálkový student 5 routes Čtyři panny 5 routes Gigolo 5 routes Schodiště 5 routes Baronesa 5 routes Lesáček 4 routes Rytíř Žumbera 4 routes Pidikřístek 4 routes Lvice 4 routes Culík 4 routes Klakvakrakve 4 routes Jebáček 4 routes Bulík 4 routes Divá Bára 4 routes Podhoubí 4 routes Citrónová 4 routes Amor 4 routes Vosí věž 4 routes Pometlo 4 routes Placka 4 routes Zářijová 4 routes Pásovec 4 routes Leslie 4 routes Baba Jaga 4 routes Malý vyzobanec 3 routes Adam a Eva 3 routes Amazonka 3 routes Doskočiště 3 routes Miláček 3 routes Zamazaná 3 routes Tři sestry 3 routes Blembák 3 routes Zapadlá 3 routes Samotář 3 routes Křen 3 routes Psance 3 routes Veselá kráva 3 routes Pilíř 3 routes Ferda 3 routes Kulich 3 routes Caparti 3 routes Pipp 3 routes Rosignano 3 routes Sultán 3 routes Serafíno 3 routes Eros 3 routes Šefildská věž 3 routes Syneček 3 routes Husopaska 2 routes Bedřich 2 routes Batyskaf 2 routes Svišť 2 routes Brundibár 2 routes Trioleta 2 routes Violeta 2 routes Pacínek 2 routes Jehlička 2 routes Včelař 2 routes Amok 2 routes Užovka 2 routes Fořt 2 routes Kupido 2 routes Spací strýc 2 routes Mamička 2 routes Roraima 2 routes Tampon 2 routes Bruno 2 routes Outloň váhavý 2 routes Hermafrodit 2 routes Malá starostová 2 routes Smolíček pacholíček 2 routes Setmělík 2 routes Vintentou 2 routes Krakonoš 2 routes Ringo 2 routes Rejpal 2 routes Skořepka 2 routes Nuncius 2 routes Kadet Biegler 2 routes Dvojhlavá 2 routes Kvakvakvokoax 2 routes Zoologická zahrada 2 routes Štěně 2 routes Kotě 2 routes Konipas 2 routes Bedýnka 2 routes Páteční 2 routes Moceček 2 routes Fachman Lorenc 1 route Adršpašský endemit 1 route Sokolík 1 route Sklerotik 1 route Tomahavk 1 route Kódl 1 route Vikýřník 1 route Lidoop 1 route Pikoušek 1 route Mecháček 1 route Major Tom 1 route Punková věžička 1 route Krávoš 1 route Kurfiřt 1 route Rasputin 1 route Hona 1 route Kabelka 1 route Lembejk 1 route Kapoun 1 route Zloduch 1 route Eden 1 route Duch 1 route Padesátá první hvězdička 1 route Žižiho věž 1 route Nick 1 route Palivec 1 route Adjunkt 1 route Helma 1 route Pohodářka 1 route Chameleon 1 route Peršing 1 route Lalubi 1 route Šipzároš 1 route Úl 1 route Kleofáš 1 route Kozlíček Dazule 1 route Felina 1 route Strážce Smaragdové rokle 1 route Zejval 1 route Narozeninová jehla 1 route Amorek 1 route Hranolek 1 route Sfingička 1 route Tlusťoch 1 route Zapomnětlivec 1 route Rodinná hrobka 1 route Tadyk 1 route Pryskyřník 1 route Jára Cimrman 1 route Šmírácká vyhlídka 1 route Amorův šíp 1 route Prduch 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
8/8+
Milenci
Through the chimney "C. of Sunshine" to the pillar and further along the edge of Milenec… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Milenci
Opposite the start of the Old Route, up the chimney, higher up through a crack (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Milenci
From Milenecká at the level of the 'letecká' shelf, up the wall and over the overhang via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Milenci
In the left part of the SE wall of Milenec, up the chimney to the saddle and through a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Milenci
From the upper window, traverse the wall to the left, through a crack (circle) over an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Milenci
From the SE, to the right of Pilířová route, through a crack (2 circles) to the pillar. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Milenci
From the highest point of Milenecká Corridor, up the chimney through a recess into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7/7+
Milenci
At the beginning of Milenecká Corridor, a crack and overhang (2 circles) into a difficult… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8/8+
Milenci
From the 2nd circle of the "Letecká" wall, traverse 2 circles to the ledge and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Milenci
Via the chimney of the Milenecká cesta (Lovers' Way) to where it's passable to the SE… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Milenci
The start is in the corner on the east side of the tower. Via a system of cracks (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
8-/8
Milenci
Via the "Linka důvěry" (Line of Trust) route into the cave (bivouac). Via opposition (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Milenci
In the right part of the SE wall via a system of cracks into the cave, then a chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8+/9-
Milenci
Left of the "Linka důvěry" (Line of Trust) route via a crack to the balcony. Traverse the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
Přeskok
Milenci
From the summit of Pilíř (Pillar) tower, jump to the ledge and follow it left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Milenci
From the NW from the stream via a chimney to the ring. Via a crack to the terrace and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Milenci
Via the "Přes věžičky" (Over the Turrets) route to the pillar. To the right via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Milenci
To the right of the Pilíř (Pillar) tower in the corner via a chimney to the pillar (also… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Milenci
From the NW, from the fore-rock, via a chimney to the ring. Traverse the wall to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Milenci
Start near the Old Way directly up the chimney to the plateau, left (1st ring) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Milenci
Via the chimney of the "Přes fichtli" variant around its ring, further up the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Milenci
Up the entrance chimney of St. c. all the way to the end. Left along the ledge above… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Pilíř
Via the Od branky (From the Gate) route to Milenci (Lovers) onto the terrace, then over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Pilíř
Via the crack of the Něžnost (Tenderness) route for seven meters, traverse left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Milenci
From the Lovers' Corridor via a chimney in the Milenka massif into the inner space. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8-/8
Pilíř
From the NE via a crack into the small cave, then a notch to the 1st ring (aid climbing),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Uhlířská
On the east edge via a system of cracks (4 rings) under the overhang and right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hranolek
From the uphill side via chimney and step-over onto the ledge. Traverse the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Samotář
From the valley up the wall to a shelf (1st ring), via a crack (2 rings) and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Samotář
SE wall to the balcony and via climbing moves to the left to the ring. Via climbing moves… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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