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Climbing at Milenecká hora

522 routes
166 areas
1–10 grades

Milenecká hora in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 520 routes – most on Milenci (the Lovers), with more on Alpská, Hrad, Hadí, Mošna and Krokodýl. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Milenecká hora has 522 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 166 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Google Waze
Milenci 24 routes Alpská 13 routes Hrad 12 routes Hadí 12 routes Mošna 12 routes Krokodýl 11 routes Cherubín 10 routes Trojník 10 routes Čtyři apoštolové 10 routes Přílba 9 routes Uhlířská 8 routes Tři bratři 8 routes Lesník 8 routes Řeřicha 7 routes Baloun 6 routes Vřesová 6 routes Kvarteto 6 routes Majka 5 routes Hvízdavý Dan 5 routes Rádža 5 routes Lidový vypravěč 5 routes Křídlo 5 routes Gondola 5 routes Mláďata 5 routes Bragliho věž 5 routes Citadela 5 routes Dálkový student 5 routes Čtyři panny 5 routes Gigolo 5 routes Schodiště 5 routes Baronesa 5 routes Lesáček 4 routes Rytíř Žumbera 4 routes Pidikřístek 4 routes Lvice 4 routes Culík 4 routes Klakvakrakve 4 routes Jebáček 4 routes Bulík 4 routes Divá Bára 4 routes Podhoubí 4 routes Citrónová 4 routes Amor 4 routes Vosí věž 4 routes Pometlo 4 routes Placka 4 routes Zářijová 4 routes Pásovec 4 routes Leslie 4 routes Baba Jaga 4 routes Malý vyzobanec 3 routes Adam a Eva 3 routes Amazonka 3 routes Doskočiště 3 routes Miláček 3 routes Zamazaná 3 routes Tři sestry 3 routes Blembák 3 routes Zapadlá 3 routes Samotář 3 routes Křen 3 routes Psance 3 routes Veselá kráva 3 routes Pilíř 3 routes Ferda 3 routes Kulich 3 routes Caparti 3 routes Pipp 3 routes Rosignano 3 routes Sultán 3 routes Serafíno 3 routes Eros 3 routes Šefildská věž 3 routes Syneček 3 routes Husopaska 2 routes Bedřich 2 routes Batyskaf 2 routes Svišť 2 routes Brundibár 2 routes Trioleta 2 routes Violeta 2 routes Pacínek 2 routes Jehlička 2 routes Včelař 2 routes Amok 2 routes Užovka 2 routes Fořt 2 routes Kupido 2 routes Spací strýc 2 routes Mamička 2 routes Roraima 2 routes Tampon 2 routes Bruno 2 routes Outloň váhavý 2 routes Hermafrodit 2 routes Malá starostová 2 routes Smolíček pacholíček 2 routes Setmělík 2 routes Vintentou 2 routes Krakonoš 2 routes Ringo 2 routes Rejpal 2 routes Skořepka 2 routes Nuncius 2 routes Kadet Biegler 2 routes Dvojhlavá 2 routes Kvakvakvokoax 2 routes Zoologická zahrada 2 routes Štěně 2 routes Kotě 2 routes Konipas 2 routes Bedýnka 2 routes Páteční 2 routes Moceček 2 routes Fachman Lorenc 1 route Adršpašský endemit 1 route Sokolík 1 route Sklerotik 1 route Tomahavk 1 route Kódl 1 route Vikýřník 1 route Lidoop 1 route Pikoušek 1 route Mecháček 1 route Major Tom 1 route Punková věžička 1 route Krávoš 1 route Kurfiřt 1 route Rasputin 1 route Hona 1 route Kabelka 1 route Lembejk 1 route Kapoun 1 route Zloduch 1 route Eden 1 route Duch 1 route Padesátá první hvězdička 1 route Žižiho věž 1 route Nick 1 route Palivec 1 route Adjunkt 1 route Helma 1 route Pohodářka 1 route Chameleon 1 route Peršing 1 route Lalubi 1 route Šipzároš 1 route Úl 1 route Kleofáš 1 route Kozlíček Dazule 1 route Felina 1 route Strážce Smaragdové rokle 1 route Zejval 1 route Narozeninová jehla 1 route Amorek 1 route Hranolek 1 route Sfingička 1 route Tlusťoch 1 route Zapomnětlivec 1 route Rodinná hrobka 1 route Tadyk 1 route Pryskyřník 1 route Jára Cimrman 1 route Šmírácká vyhlídka 1 route Amorův šíp 1 route Prduch 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6+/7-
Samotář
From the terrace from the NW, up the wall to the left to the edge (1st ring), up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Gondola
Via the "Benátská" (Venetian) route without technical moves to the ring. Traverse… Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
7+/8-
Hrad
In the left part of the NE wall, through a fissure (ring) into the chimney and up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hrad
In the right part of the SW wall, via a crack, higher up through the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hrad
Via the Polička route to the 1st ring, traverse right along the ledge (2nd ring) into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hrad
From the balcony between the 1st and 2nd rings, traverse the wall to the right and via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hrad
Jubilee route to the 1st ring and via the falconet notch left to the 2nd ring. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Hrad
To the right of the Jubilee route, via a crack (1st ring) and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Hrad
In the right part of the NE wall, via a crack to the 1st ring (aided from a sling) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Hrad
To the right of "Jubilee", up the wall 2Q and left into "Jubilee". Along it to the crawl… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Hrad
From the suspended boulder above the viewpoint with Saxon-style construction (1st ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hrad
From SW, via a system of cracks (3 rings) and a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Hrad
In the corner to the left of the start of the "Polic" route, up the wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Hrad
Via the Polic route to the 1st ring. Traverse the wall to the left to the crack and up it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Citadela
To the left of the route "Masonic Lodge", through a narrow chimney to the pillar. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Citadela
In the middle of the valley wall, through the chimney under the overhang and via a crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Citadela
In the middle of the valley wall, through a crack, corner (1st ring) and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Citadela
In the left part of the valley (NE) wall, via a crack in the gap between towers to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
2
Citadela
From SE, from the massif, a step-over and briefly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zloduch
From the hiking trail, via a crack and chimney to the 1st and 2nd bolts. From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Vřesová
From the 1st Quickdraw of 'Rehabilitation Tricks' diagonally left into the Old Route,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Vřesová
In the middle of the SE wall, via a notch and the wall to the 1st bolt. To the right, a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Vřesová
From the 'Závojová cesta' (Veil Route) up the wall along small cracks to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Vřesová
In the right part of the SE wall, via a crack to the pillar and then the wall (bolt) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5
Vřesová
In the left part of the SE wall, a broken crack to the ledge and then the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Vřesová
From the valley side, via cracks below the crest of the NE pillar, then the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Mláďata
On the NW side from the large crevice, left onto the ledge, through the green corner and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Gigolo
To the right of the valley edge, climb the corner crack to the small balcony and then the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Gigolo
From the ring left via a corner crack, left via a chimney and along the arête to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Gigolo
From the north by wall, higher up by crack to the ring, (using a stirrup) traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3

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