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Climbing at Milenecká hora

522 routes
166 areas
1–10 grades

Milenecká hora in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 520 routes – most on Milenci (the Lovers), with more on Alpská, Hrad, Hadí, Mošna and Krokodýl. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Milenecká hora has 522 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 166 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Milenci 24 routes Alpská 13 routes Hrad 12 routes Hadí 12 routes Mošna 12 routes Krokodýl 11 routes Cherubín 10 routes Trojník 10 routes Čtyři apoštolové 10 routes Přílba 9 routes Uhlířská 8 routes Tři bratři 8 routes Lesník 8 routes Řeřicha 7 routes Baloun 6 routes Vřesová 6 routes Kvarteto 6 routes Majka 5 routes Hvízdavý Dan 5 routes Rádža 5 routes Lidový vypravěč 5 routes Křídlo 5 routes Gondola 5 routes Mláďata 5 routes Bragliho věž 5 routes Citadela 5 routes Dálkový student 5 routes Čtyři panny 5 routes Gigolo 5 routes Schodiště 5 routes Baronesa 5 routes Lesáček 4 routes Rytíř Žumbera 4 routes Pidikřístek 4 routes Lvice 4 routes Culík 4 routes Klakvakrakve 4 routes Jebáček 4 routes Bulík 4 routes Divá Bára 4 routes Podhoubí 4 routes Citrónová 4 routes Amor 4 routes Vosí věž 4 routes Pometlo 4 routes Placka 4 routes Zářijová 4 routes Pásovec 4 routes Leslie 4 routes Baba Jaga 4 routes Malý vyzobanec 3 routes Adam a Eva 3 routes Amazonka 3 routes Doskočiště 3 routes Miláček 3 routes Zamazaná 3 routes Tři sestry 3 routes Blembák 3 routes Zapadlá 3 routes Samotář 3 routes Křen 3 routes Psance 3 routes Veselá kráva 3 routes Pilíř 3 routes Ferda 3 routes Kulich 3 routes Caparti 3 routes Pipp 3 routes Rosignano 3 routes Sultán 3 routes Serafíno 3 routes Eros 3 routes Šefildská věž 3 routes Syneček 3 routes Husopaska 2 routes Bedřich 2 routes Batyskaf 2 routes Svišť 2 routes Brundibár 2 routes Trioleta 2 routes Violeta 2 routes Pacínek 2 routes Jehlička 2 routes Včelař 2 routes Amok 2 routes Užovka 2 routes Fořt 2 routes Kupido 2 routes Spací strýc 2 routes Mamička 2 routes Roraima 2 routes Tampon 2 routes Bruno 2 routes Outloň váhavý 2 routes Hermafrodit 2 routes Malá starostová 2 routes Smolíček pacholíček 2 routes Setmělík 2 routes Vintentou 2 routes Krakonoš 2 routes Ringo 2 routes Rejpal 2 routes Skořepka 2 routes Nuncius 2 routes Kadet Biegler 2 routes Dvojhlavá 2 routes Kvakvakvokoax 2 routes Zoologická zahrada 2 routes Štěně 2 routes Kotě 2 routes Konipas 2 routes Bedýnka 2 routes Páteční 2 routes Moceček 2 routes Fachman Lorenc 1 route Adršpašský endemit 1 route Sokolík 1 route Sklerotik 1 route Tomahavk 1 route Kódl 1 route Vikýřník 1 route Lidoop 1 route Pikoušek 1 route Mecháček 1 route Major Tom 1 route Punková věžička 1 route Krávoš 1 route Kurfiřt 1 route Rasputin 1 route Hona 1 route Kabelka 1 route Lembejk 1 route Kapoun 1 route Zloduch 1 route Eden 1 route Duch 1 route Padesátá první hvězdička 1 route Žižiho věž 1 route Nick 1 route Palivec 1 route Adjunkt 1 route Helma 1 route Pohodářka 1 route Chameleon 1 route Peršing 1 route Lalubi 1 route Šipzároš 1 route Úl 1 route Kleofáš 1 route Kozlíček Dazule 1 route Felina 1 route Strážce Smaragdové rokle 1 route Zejval 1 route Narozeninová jehla 1 route Amorek 1 route Hranolek 1 route Sfingička 1 route Tlusťoch 1 route Zapomnětlivec 1 route Rodinná hrobka 1 route Tadyk 1 route Pryskyřník 1 route Jára Cimrman 1 route Šmírácká vyhlídka 1 route Amorův šíp 1 route Prduch 1 route
8/8+
Gigolo
By crack to the ring, upwards into a small fissure (2nd ring), via a fissure into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4-
Tadyk
From the ledge on the uphill side of the tower (from Lvice) traverse left along the wall… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Hadí
In the right part of the NE wall via a crack (ring) to the saddle and by wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Hadí
In the middle of the NE wall via a crack over an overhang and an S-shaped crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4+
Hadí
From SW (in the recess between the pillars) via a chimney and corner crack onto the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5+
Hadí
Right of the Rejnočí route via a crack to the saddle and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
8/8+
Hadí
Via the Dubček crack for 5m and right to the arête via Bh and 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Hadí
From NW via a corner crack onto a small platform, then by crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7-/7
Hadí
From the balcony in the left part of the NE wall, left by wall to a fissure (1st ring),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Hadí
From the balcony in the left part of the NE wall, right via a crack and fissure to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Hadí
From the 1st ring of the Antabus route via a fissure and wall (ring) directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Lvice
From NW by wall onto a block. Left with significant aid and by crack to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Hadí
From the ring by wall to the left, via a fine crack and groove onto the pillar. By wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Hadí
Left of the Old Route via a small crack and wall to the right edge of the slab. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Hadí
In the left part of the NE wall via a narrow chimney to the ring, (with aid) via a groove… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Lvice
At the west arête (from the block) by wall to the ring. Traverse right along the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Lvice
From NE via an off-width chimney to the ring. Right over the overhang into a crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Baba Jaga
In the left part of the valley (SE) wall via a chimney, higher up to the right by crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Lvice
From SW via a chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Baba Jaga
From the stemming position against a block at the north corner of the tower, left by wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Baba Jaga
From the uphill side via a chimney and left along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Baba Jaga
To the right of the north corner via a conical chimney to the end, then by crack and wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Majka
From the highest point of the terrain on the NE side of the tower via a narrow crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Majka
In the left part of the SW wall via a crack to the pillar. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Majka
From the NE via a crack to the block, then via a chimney and a corner crack to the pillar… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Majka
In the right part of the SW wall via a crack to the pillar, then left along it and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Majka
Left in the NW wall via opposition and a crack over the ring to the 2nd ring. Left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Štěně
Via the SE crack and wall to the ring. Right along the wall and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Štěně
From the valley side via cracks under the overhang, traverse right along the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Schodiště
From the west across the gorge to the ledge and along it to the balcony, then up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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