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Climbing at Milenecká hora

522 routes
166 areas
1–10 grades

Milenecká hora in the Adršpach Rocks offers more than 520 routes – most on Milenci (the Lovers), with more on Alpská, Hrad, Hadí, Mošna and Krokodýl. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Milenecká hora has 522 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 166 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Milenci 24 routes Alpská 13 routes Hrad 12 routes Hadí 12 routes Mošna 12 routes Krokodýl 11 routes Cherubín 10 routes Trojník 10 routes Čtyři apoštolové 10 routes Přílba 9 routes Uhlířská 8 routes Tři bratři 8 routes Lesník 8 routes Řeřicha 7 routes Baloun 6 routes Vřesová 6 routes Kvarteto 6 routes Majka 5 routes Hvízdavý Dan 5 routes Rádža 5 routes Lidový vypravěč 5 routes Křídlo 5 routes Gondola 5 routes Mláďata 5 routes Bragliho věž 5 routes Citadela 5 routes Dálkový student 5 routes Čtyři panny 5 routes Gigolo 5 routes Schodiště 5 routes Baronesa 5 routes Lesáček 4 routes Rytíř Žumbera 4 routes Pidikřístek 4 routes Lvice 4 routes Culík 4 routes Klakvakrakve 4 routes Jebáček 4 routes Bulík 4 routes Divá Bára 4 routes Podhoubí 4 routes Citrónová 4 routes Amor 4 routes Vosí věž 4 routes Pometlo 4 routes Placka 4 routes Zářijová 4 routes Pásovec 4 routes Leslie 4 routes Baba Jaga 4 routes Malý vyzobanec 3 routes Adam a Eva 3 routes Amazonka 3 routes Doskočiště 3 routes Miláček 3 routes Zamazaná 3 routes Tři sestry 3 routes Blembák 3 routes Zapadlá 3 routes Samotář 3 routes Křen 3 routes Psance 3 routes Veselá kráva 3 routes Pilíř 3 routes Ferda 3 routes Kulich 3 routes Caparti 3 routes Pipp 3 routes Rosignano 3 routes Sultán 3 routes Serafíno 3 routes Eros 3 routes Šefildská věž 3 routes Syneček 3 routes Husopaska 2 routes Bedřich 2 routes Batyskaf 2 routes Svišť 2 routes Brundibár 2 routes Trioleta 2 routes Violeta 2 routes Pacínek 2 routes Jehlička 2 routes Včelař 2 routes Amok 2 routes Užovka 2 routes Fořt 2 routes Kupido 2 routes Spací strýc 2 routes Mamička 2 routes Roraima 2 routes Tampon 2 routes Bruno 2 routes Outloň váhavý 2 routes Hermafrodit 2 routes Malá starostová 2 routes Smolíček pacholíček 2 routes Setmělík 2 routes Vintentou 2 routes Krakonoš 2 routes Ringo 2 routes Rejpal 2 routes Skořepka 2 routes Nuncius 2 routes Kadet Biegler 2 routes Dvojhlavá 2 routes Kvakvakvokoax 2 routes Zoologická zahrada 2 routes Štěně 2 routes Kotě 2 routes Konipas 2 routes Bedýnka 2 routes Páteční 2 routes Moceček 2 routes Fachman Lorenc 1 route Adršpašský endemit 1 route Sokolík 1 route Sklerotik 1 route Tomahavk 1 route Kódl 1 route Vikýřník 1 route Lidoop 1 route Pikoušek 1 route Mecháček 1 route Major Tom 1 route Punková věžička 1 route Krávoš 1 route Kurfiřt 1 route Rasputin 1 route Hona 1 route Kabelka 1 route Lembejk 1 route Kapoun 1 route Zloduch 1 route Eden 1 route Duch 1 route Padesátá první hvězdička 1 route Žižiho věž 1 route Nick 1 route Palivec 1 route Adjunkt 1 route Helma 1 route Pohodářka 1 route Chameleon 1 route Peršing 1 route Lalubi 1 route Šipzároš 1 route Úl 1 route Kleofáš 1 route Kozlíček Dazule 1 route Felina 1 route Strážce Smaragdové rokle 1 route Zejval 1 route Narozeninová jehla 1 route Amorek 1 route Hranolek 1 route Sfingička 1 route Tlusťoch 1 route Zapomnětlivec 1 route Rodinná hrobka 1 route Tadyk 1 route Pryskyřník 1 route Jára Cimrman 1 route Šmírácká vyhlídka 1 route Amorův šíp 1 route Prduch 1 route
6-
Přílba
In the left part of the NE wall, via the right crack over the overhang, right along the… Rock Climbing
5+
Přílba
In the right part of the NE wall, via the crack and chimney to the ring. Traverse right… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Přílba
In the approximately north wall, via the crack to its end (ring), left into another crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Přílba
From the plateau side, via the chimney to a ledge into the inner space. By stemming to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Přílba
From the NW, via the chimney to the platform and via the crack to the pre-summit. By body… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Přílba
From Svist (Marmot), via the right crack (hourglass) to the small pillar (ring). Left via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Přílba
From Svist (Marmot), via the crack (1st ring), up the wall to the 2nd ring and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Baronesa
From the valley side, with strenuous body stacking/aid to the ring. Via the crack to its… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Baronesa
From the end of the crack, traverse left across the wall, via the narrow corner/flute… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Baronesa
In the valley wall, via the right crack (ring) to the platform, then by body stacking/aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Baronesa
From the plateau side (with strenuous body stacking/aid) via the crack and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Řeřicha
To the right of the northern corner, up the crack to the ring. Left traverse across the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Řeřicha
NE crack over the small cave to the 1st and 2nd ring. Up the crack (aid climbing from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Řeřicha
From the plateau gorge, up the crack to a small pillar, further left up the crack (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Řeřicha
In the valley (NW) face, up the chimney (1st ring) and a system of cracks to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Řeřicha
From the block at the western corner of the tower, over the overhang and up the crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
4-
Řeřicha
In the right part of the SE face, up the crack and chimney to the sub-summit. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Trojník
To the left of the plateau (northern) corner of the tower, via a diagonal notch to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Trojník
From the NW, up the small chimney/dihedral to the ring of the Sláva trudu route and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Alpská
From the valley side, up the chimney to the block and (with aid) into the recess. Right… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Alpská
Valley route to the block. Overhang into the hole, left up the wall to the crack and then… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Alpská
Left of the western corner, ascend via a crack into the "Corner Crack" hole and then… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Alpská
Right of the western corner, ascend via a crack into the hole and then via the right… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4-
Alpská
From SW, ascend via a chimney to the pillar and then via a groove to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Alpská
Near the northern edge, ascend via a corner crack to a small platform. Then via a double… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4-
Alpská
Left of the Old Route, ascend via a corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6-
Alpská
From the W corner, ascend via a chimney to a smaller pillar and via the wall (3 rings) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Alpská
In the right southern corner, ascend via a system of cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
7/7+
Bragliho věž
In the right part of the NW face, ascend via an overhanging gully and right via a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Bragliho věž
In the left part of the upper wall, ascend via stemming or along the edge to the SE… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1

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