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Erotický sen, Pilíř 8-/8

Czech Republic, East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks, Milenecká hora, Pilíř

8-/8

Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay

Last updated 2024-05-12

Grade 8-/8

Climbing season

Restrictions in 5 month(s)

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
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No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
8-/8
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Location

50.61075, 16.11383

Parking 925 m

50.61697, 16.12254

Via the crack of the Něžnost (Tenderness) route for seven meters, traverse left to the 1st and 2nd rings. Up the wall to the 3rd ring. Slanting left along the wall to the balcony of the Od branky (From the Gate) route and right along the wall to the 4th and 5th rings. Left via a crack to the 6th ring. Up the wall (7th ring) to the ledge to the 4th ring of the Něžnost route and via that to the summit.
Rules

Nature Conservation: Climbing is not allowed. Nature Conservation Document: Conservation measure 2019, Conservation Authority Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area.

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature protection: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1 to June 30. Nature Protection Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority PLA Broumovsko

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

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