Overview
Last updated 2024-03-26
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'Šedý kout horní' is a classic and highly regarded route located in the 'levá část' (left part) sector of 'Blážina stěna', a popular climbing area. Graded V on the UIAA scale (equivalent to around 5.7/5.8 YDS), this route offers a fantastic experience for climbers looking for a well-protected yet engaging climb on typical Czech sandstone.
As its name, 'Šedý kout' (Grey Corner), suggests, the route primarily follows a corner system. This often translates to consistent, thoughtful climbing, with good hand and footholds if you read the rock well. The 'horn' (upper) part implies it might be the more prominent or perhaps the upper section of a longer corner system, offering sustained vertical progress.
Climbing 'Šedý kout horní' is a true pleasure. The rock quality in Blážina stěna is generally excellent, providing reliable friction and positive features. While Grade V is accessible to many intermediate climbers, it still demands solid technique, efficient movement, and a degree of confidence, especially on sandstone where traditional protection might be the norm. Reaching the top of the route provides a rewarding sense of accomplishment and often beautiful views of the surrounding landscape. It's a route that perfectly encapsulates the charm and unique character of Czech sandstone climbing.
Rules
Nature protection: climbing allowed all year round. Nature protection documents: Decision 2019-2029, drawing, authority OP PLA Bohemian Karst
The access road along the Berounka River is closed due to the risk of falling rocks from the playground in Srbsko to Kačák.Nature protection: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature protection documents: Decision 2019-2029, appendices, authority OP PLA Bohemian Karst
- The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
- Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
- Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
- No climbing on wet rock.
The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.
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