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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

5
Zrcadlo
The exact location of the route is not currently known. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Zrcadlo
Climbing prohibited in the entire sector. Formerly an old aid climbing route in a crack. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
4
Zrcadlo
The exact location of the route is not currently known. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
10-
Centrální stěna
At the end of route Atlantis (on the entire connection) without moving to the left corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Centrální stěna
Freely to the rappel station of "Atlantis", right into the wall to the rappel station of … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Centrální stěna
From the ledge over the block and directly into the second pitch of route "Real Life". Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Centrální stěna
From the belay slightly right into the overhanging crack and further up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Centrální stěna
Through the breakthrough and slightly right to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
8
Centrální stěna
Through the breakthrough like "White Birds" and slightly left onto the ledge; possible to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Centrální stěna
Start Aplaus and slightly right onto the ledge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Centrální stěna
From the ledge (end of Mini Marathon) straight up, ends at the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Centrální stěna
Up the prominent corner to the right to the chain below the ledge, additional protection… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
10-/10
Centrální stěna
From the chain of route Aplaus further to the top, 8 meters of overhang, 80 meters rope… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Centrální stěna
Bypasses the jump in "Completed route", ends at the chain, possible to start from route 9… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Centrální stěna
Left part of the red wall 1st Ascent Petr Resch 2007 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10/10+
Centrální stěna
Right part of the red wall, ends at the left rappel station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Centrální stěna
At the key section of "Atlantis" turn right and follow the crack to the rappel station… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Centrální stěna
Combination of "Free as a bird" and "Filek" (at the bolt connection), directly to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Centrální stěna
to the right of "Vlažný potlesk" (Warm applause) over 4 bolts onto the ledge Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Centrální stěna
Start Brothers in T-Shirts, between 1st and 2nd bolt left (separate bolt), traverse the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Centrální stěna
Start Atlantis, from the ledge left over 2 bolts to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Centrální stěna
Start "Brothers in T-Shirts" and traverse above ground to "Pepa the Sailor" and onto the… Fixed belay Route in shadow
8-/8
Centrální stěna
boulder on the left on the lower floor Fixed belay Route in shadow
8/8+
Centrální stěna
over 3 bolts to the right of "Jo jo" onto the ledge Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Centrální stěna
over two bolts on the lower floor onto the ledge Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Centrální stěna
to the right of "Minimaratón" over 4 bolts onto the ledge Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Centrální stěna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Centrální stěna
left route in the left side wall Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Centrální stěna
right route in the left side wall Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Centrální stěna
left edge of the wall, illogically routed and bolted Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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