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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

7-
Centrální stěna
left edge of the wall, illogically routed and bolted Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Rajbas
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7/7+
Rajbas
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Rajbas
Across the overhanging steps completely to the right Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Rajbas
Down the slab, at the top on the right side of the protruding overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+
Rajbas
Down the slab, at the top from the left of the overhanging pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8/8+
Rajbas
Rocks of CR, CHS database. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Rajbas
Roughly in the middle of the lower slab. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Rajbas
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Rajbas
Completely to the left from the ledge onto the slab and along it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Rajbas
Farthest to the left. Along the slab and then traverse right and ascent roughly in the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Panoptikum
Along the edge from the right to the summit, using the rappels of adjacent routes. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Panoptikum
In the right part of the triangular wall. To the 4th bolt up the wall and further right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Panoptikum
Short route along the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Panoptikum
Through an overhanging corner and up the wall to the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Panoptikum
Directly up the black band in the right part of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Panoptikum
From the break at the start, directly up the wall to the edge for the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Panoptikum
Over a prominent orange break-out below the summit.
7
Panoptikum
Second route from the crack, directly over the protection. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Panoptikum
Directly in line with the protection up the slab and to the middle peak. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Panoptikum
Sandstone 'morale' route in the middle of the wall (slab climbing, edges and rounded… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7
Panoptikum
Up the wall right of the crack and directly to the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Panoptikum
Left crack as Orchestrion, finish freely to the right to the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
6-
Panoptikum
From the fore-rock left above the overhang and up the wall left along the crack, finish… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Panoptikum
Up a prominent crack (3 bolts) to the ledge, left up a small wall over 3 bolts to the…
5+
Panoptikum
To the right via an overhang, laid-back edge, protruding small wall near the edge,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Paraple
From the fore-rock up a smooth wall over a prominent groove, from the ledge up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Paraple
Boulder in the lower part, up the wall over the ledge and the summit corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Paraple
From the fore-rock in the corner, from the right along the crack in the left wall, over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Paraple
Right of the corner, overhanging edge, narrow wall and scree slope, overhanging crack and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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