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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

3+
Jelínkův most
Via a hollow and a chimney below the overhang. Over it into the corner and up through it. Rock Climbing Overhang
4
Jelínkův most
Through the wall from the left into the small chimney, then around the small tree to the… Rock Climbing Laid wall
4
Vlastina stěna
Start 5m to the right of Vlastina's route. Up the wall to the small cave and up under the… Rock Climbing
4
Vlastina stěna
From the second ring to the right over a piton n.t. Rock Climbing
6
Vlastina stěna
Along the Winter Promenade past the traverse and Markéta straight up with the left… Rock Climbing
1
Vlastina stěna
Through a distinct cauldron-shaped recess between Vlastina and Blážina wall to the small… Rock Climbing
5
Vlastina stěna
Start 7m to the right of Lednová route. Along the diagonally right-hand crack with holes … Rock Climbing
8-/8
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Vlastina stěna
Approach right of the small cave, a challenging passage around the first bolt and further… Rock Climbing
8+
Vlastina stěna
Climbing 'Carpe diem' (grade 8+) at Vlastina stěna is a classic challenge for any… Rock Climbing
9+/10-
Centrál
It's really forced up there. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8/8+
Centrál
Krumpáč, a challenging 8/8+ climb in the Centrál area, demands both technical skill and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7/7+
Čelo
From the right through a crack around the boulder. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay

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