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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

9+
Coupé
A somewhat forced descent makes the route almost an endurance climb. During the descent,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
8-
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Coupé
Maximum utilization of the overhang all the way up to the right. Strength and a bit of… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
9-
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Coupé
As the name says. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
8
Coupé
Boulder at the first. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
8-/8
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
9
Coupé
Domestic mini Silence, you climb with your hands at the height of the bolts. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
7-/7
Coupé
Attempt at an easier ascent did not turn out quite as intended in terms of difficulty. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
7+
Coupé
Long climb in the overhang on good holds, ends like Báchammer. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5-
Jižní hrana
Along the overhanging crack to the right, up the wall below the overhang and directly to… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Jižní hrana
Along the edge to the grassy footbridge (old path from Flám). Diagonally up and right… Rock Climbing
8
Vlastina stěna
By Death Certificate into the cave and wall diagonally left to a horizontal fault, here… Rock Climbing
2
Jižní hrana
By the wall, over the rosehip, to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Jižní hrana
To the right of the Southern edge. Rock Climbing
6
Jižní hrana
To the right of the path, via the "We'll drink it beforehand" overhanging wall into a… Rock Climbing
3+
Jižní hrana
With a prominent corner directly to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Jižní hrana
Through the small chimney and the wall. Rock Climbing
4
Jižní hrana
Up the overgrown wall and corner below the overhang, then over it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Jižní hrana
Along the crack in the slab to its end, right into the corner and directly to the top. (2… Rock Climbing
4
Jelínkův most
Through a corner and a wall into a gully, which leads to the top of the pillar. Along the… Rock Climbing Laid wall
7
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5-
Jelínkův most
Through a recess into a narrowing chimney, over an overhang between wedged boulders.… Rock Climbing
4+
Jelínkův most
Directly through the corner. Rock Climbing Laid wall
5-
Jelínkův most
Along the crack and the corner (book) directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
2
Jelínkův most
Through the wall from the left to the top of the pillar. Rock Climbing
5
Jelínkův most
Along the wall right to the gully/chimney, through which to the top of the pillar (ring,… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
2
Jelínkův most
Up the chimney from the right to the top of the pillar. Rock Climbing
5
Jelínkův most
Through the summit's external chimney up to below the arch, and then via the right-hand… Rock Climbing Vertical wall

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