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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

5
Pupek
Up the wall and corner (friends) via a bolt left to the 1st ring. From there, left (also… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6
Pupek
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Pupek
To the right of the prominent corner along the edge to the summit. historical… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pupek
To the right of the center of the wall, slightly diagonally right upwards. VI-A0, RP… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Pupek
Straightening variation of Brumlíci directly from the ring. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6-
Pupek
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pupek
From the bike path up, left and over a bulge to a sloping ledge, along it to the right to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Pupek
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pupek
From the ledge, via the "Direttissima Horní" route to the end of the crack. Continue… Rock Climbing
8-
Pupek
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Pupek
From the corner of the upper part of "Poslední problém" (Last Problem) left into the… Rock Climbing
7+
Pupek
Start to the right of the "Direttissima Dolní" route directly to its first bolt. Continue… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Pupek
Start to the right of the "Direct Lower Variant" route. Up the wall to a ledge (cam),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+
Pupek
Start to the right of the "Thanks God" route directly over one bolt difficultly on small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pupek
From the ledge, up a wide crack to its end. Continue diagonally left over a bolt into a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Pupek
Start by the old route, from the first ledge to the right over a bolt and up to the… Rock Climbing
6
Pupek
Start on the sloping ledge to the left of the hollow in the fall line of the summit nose… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
7
Pupek
From the third bolt of the "Direttissima Dolní" route, directly up over one bolt to the… Rock Climbing
5
Pupek
To the left of the "Direttissima Dolní" route, from a two-finger pocket to a fragile… Rock Climbing Overhang
5
Pupek
Start in the left part of the SW face through a corner slightly to the right to the first… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Pupek
Start to the left of the narrow crack (W wall). Traverse right along the overhang to a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
10
Pupek
From the "Iron Maiden" route above the first bolt, diagonally left along the edge of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9+/10-
Pupek
From the first bolt of the "Old Route", up the wall along the small pillar directly over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Pupek
From the second bolt of the "Old Route", slightly diagonally left under the overhang to a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
8
Pupek
From the third bolt (Sulke's tear in the corner) of "Blančina cesta", slightly diagonally… Rock Climbing
9-
Pupek
To the left of the "Big Ben" route, over a series of bolts all the way to the top,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8/8+
Pupek
From the second bolt (Sulke's tear in the corner) of "Blančina cesta", slightly… Rock Climbing
8+
Pupek
Start to the right of "Lesní cesta" (Forest Route) in the left part of the north face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Pupek
To the right of the small roof over two bolts (bh) into "Blančina cesta". Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
6
Pupek
Start with "Lesní cesta" (Forest Route), from it higher up to the right by traversing… Rock Climbing

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