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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

4
První stěna
Chimney crack between prominent pillars slightly left to a piton, wall to a ledge and… Rock Climbing
3
První stěna
The route leads through the first chimney behind the right edge. Rock Climbing
4
První stěna
To the right of the pillar over two pitons to a platform, traverse 2m to the left and… Rock Climbing
4
První stěna
Through a wall under an overhang, chimneying over a hollow-sounding block onto ledges and… Rock Climbing
3
První stěna
The route leads through the second chimney behind the right edge. Rock Climbing
4
První stěna
The route is in the front wall facing the Berounka river. Approximately in the middle of… Rock Climbing
4
První stěna
Via the 'sokolík' (bird's beak feature) depression to the left of the slab (ring), to the… Rock Climbing
6
Plotna
Completely on the right. Rock Climbing
4
Plotna
Valley wall of a separate block about 50m from Plotna towards Karlštejn. Rock Climbing
5
Plotna
Through a shallow gully in the right part of the slab. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5-
Plotna
Rock Climbing
5-
Plotna
Var. Direttissima route, start from the right. Rock Climbing
5-
Plotna
to the right of Hořovická over 4 bh, at the end left to the Hořovická belay Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Plotna
Start from the left directly to the 1st rivet. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Plotna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Plotna
Start directly under the first belay of the Direct Variant route, over the rock fracture… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Plotna
Scaling the 'Direttissima' (Grade 4) on 'Plotna' is an iconic experience within Czech… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Plotna
Superdirett variant. start from the right via rivet to the third belay of… Rock Climbing
6
Plotna
Direttissima route variant Rock Climbing
5
Plotna
The 'Superdirettissima' on Plotna, a true classic graded 5 (UIAA), stands as an iconic… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Plotna
The start is in the fall line of the edge of the flake extending over the slab, directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Plotna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Plotna
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Plotna
Climbing 'Soukromá cesta' (Private Way), graded 6 on the UIAA scale, is a classic… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
3
Plotna
Left along the crack over 1 BH Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
U jeskyně
to the anchor shared with route 'Ode zdi ke zdi' (From wall to wall) Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
U jeskyně
6th to the right of the cave (right of Pume). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-
U jeskyně
4th line to the right of the cave. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-
U jeskyně
5th starting line to the right of the cave. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9
U jeskyně
Roughly in the middle of the right wall next to the cave. Slightly overhanging wall at… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1

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