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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

9
U jeskyně
The approach is to the right of the cave like the Eiger route, then traverse to the De… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9
U jeskyně
Roughly in the middle of the right wall next to the cave. Slightly overhanging wall at… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+/9-
U jeskyně
Second starting line to the right of the cave. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
U jeskyně
The right approach variant of the Foreplay route, with which it shares a common descent… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8
U jeskyně
Overhanging edge in the left part of the cave. The first one to the left of the cave. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9-
U jeskyně
The first approach line to the right of the cave, shared with the Eiger route, later… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+/7-
U jeskyně
Right of the Cácorka route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
U jeskyně
To the right of the route, excellent. Down on the slab/face, then slightly powerfully on… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-/8
U jeskyně
Straight to the bolt, then right (Pupi Di Mama goes slightly left). Nice boulder around… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7/7+
U jeskyně
Below, over a small overhang, then an intricate wall with a harder finish. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+
U jeskyně
The sixth path to the left of the cave, to the right of the 'Even Better' path. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Kobylí hlava
At the base of the rock (bolt) under the overhanging belly (bolt) and over it (ledge, 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+
U jeskyně
The path leads furthest to the left from the cave. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8
U jeskyně
To the left of the cave (see inscription on the rock). Shared start with Pupi di Papa,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Kobylí hlava
Up the overhanging wall to the right of the blunt corner, into good holds, then up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Kobylí hlava
Right of Zrzka across 4 bolts to rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Kobylí hlava
At the fore-rock, under the overhanging belly. Over it to the rappel anchor (maillon).… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Kobylí hlava
In the left part of the central pillar, via the fore-rock and a crack over an overhang to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Kobylí hlava
In the middle of the central pillar, with a rocky outcrop and a rusty wall for rappelling. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Kobylí hlava
Third from the edge on the left. Directly up over 6 rivets. Overhang over the fourth… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Kobylí hlava
The path leads left from c. Tea, bolts. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Pohádka
Right of the tunnel, 2nd from the right. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5-
Pohádka
To the right of the tunnel, the 1st road from the right. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Pohádka
Right of the tunnel, 6th from the right. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Pohádka
Climbing "Rudovous" (grade 7) in "Pohádka" is a truly memorable experience that embodies… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Pohádka
Between Mařenka and Budulínek via 3 hooks. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Pohádka
Climbing 'Hlupáček' (grade 6+) in the magical realm of 'Pohádka' is an experience that… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3+
Pohádka
Right of the tunnel, up the stairs to rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Pohádka
In the corner by the tunnel, across 4 bolts to rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Pohádka
To the right of the tunnel, 3rd road from the left Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1

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