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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

7-
Staré skály
To the right of c. "Freedom is approaching" directly over three rivets. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Staré skály
Directly to the ring of the route "Svoboda se blíží" (Freedom is approaching). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Staré skály
Beautiful, perfectly secured edge Rock Climbing Route in shadow
3
Kout
Right along the edge to the 'Winter Garden' path. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Laid wall
3+
Kout
A nice easy road Rock Climbing Route in shadow
3
Kout
For children and beginners Rock Climbing Route in shadow
3
Kout
Start on the left from the edge, via the wall (piton/bolt) and right to the edge, then up… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Kout
Sports shoe with good grips Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5+
Kout
Sporty grade five over the overhang, good edges. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4+
Kout
A classic path in the corner, dirty. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
7+
Kout
Bouldering variant, without a hold/handle on the right. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5+
Kout
A forceful entry for good grips Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Kout
Good holds in slightly overhanging rock Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Sloní hlava
On my way between Black Chimney and the Descent route. Over two sections. Rock Climbing
1
Sloní hlava
By a prominent indentation up to the Holey Cave. Rock Climbing
4
Sloní hlava
Via a recess under the overhang (book) and from the right to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Sloní hlava
Pegasus corner 8 m upwards, traverse to the right (watch), through the wall and the… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
9-
Sloní hlava
4 rivets; brittle and moral; the route requires a very quick belayer, especially under… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Danger +1
5
Sloní hlava
On the wall to the left of the chimney directly under the overhang. Rock Climbing
4
Sloní hlava
Along the small pillar to the right onto the oblique ledge. To the left to the crack, up… Rock Climbing
4+
Sloní hlava
Along the oblique ledge as in Ronda to below the overhang of the Black Chimney. From the… Rock Climbing
6+
Sloní hlava
From the ring at the beginning of the finishing corner to the right onto the small… Rock Climbing
4+
Sloní hlava
Through the small corner to the ledge as in Pegasus. Traverse left along the hooks,… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
4
Sloní hlava
From the circle, through the bird's central corner, to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Sloní hlava
Around the corner to the ledge, up into the corner, through which into the hole. Through… Rock Climbing
5+
Sloní hlava
Along the edge of Elephant's Head, over the overhang via staples and up the slab to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-
Sloní hlava
From the second belay of the Diretissima, directly across the overhang via three bolts,… Rock Climbing
6-
Sloní hlava
Start left of the c. Wedding March. Up the right wall, step left over the overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Sloní hlava
Start at the lowest point of Elephant's Head and along the overhanging edge. Rather from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-
Sloní hlava
Up the corner to the ledge, then a long traverse left along it and along the crack to the… Rock Climbing Overhang

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