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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

5
Dušičková stěna
Directly over the overhang and via the recess to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5-
Dušičková stěna
Traverse downwards until the band of overhangs ends, and then back traversing right to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
8
Dušičková stěna
Pokora leads through the center of the smoothest slab to the right of the black band of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Dušičková stěna
Start at the same place as the previous route. Straight up into the inconspicuous groove… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
8-
Dušičková stěna
From the circle of the 'A Midsummer Night's Dream' route directly up the slab over 2bh … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
8/8+
Dušičková stěna
The first route on a prominent slab in the center of the wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Dušičková stěna
The route runs along the left edge of the black smooth slabs in the middle of the wall.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Dušičková stěna
Climbing 'Nová smlouva' (New Covenant) on Dušičková stěna is a significant challenge for… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Dušičková stěna
From the left side of the bivouac overhang, up a vertical slab along a piton, a rivet to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+
Dušičková stěna
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
7-
Dušičková stěna
The crack branches off at the start of the prominent corner of Křemílek's Way. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Dušičková stěna
To the left of the cave, past two Bh (bolts), diagonally left to the piton in the corner… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Dušičková stěna
Start with a short ladder about 10m to the left of the bivouac overhang in the middle… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Dušičková stěna
in the central part of the Friends' Path from T. R. to the right and then back Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Dušičková stěna
Meters right from start point No. 2, via the Smooth Wall to the corner crack (piton) and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Dušičková stěna
From the left foot of the wall diagonally to the right along traversing ledges (bushes)… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Textile belay
4
Dušičková stěna
Start like the Pomlázková route to the band of overhangs. Slightly from the right across… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
7-
Dušičková stěna
Approach the same way as the Pomlázková route. From the left base of the wall, diagonally… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
9/9+
Matterhorn
Route to the right of the Direttissima slab (at the right edge). Note: Completed project… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Matterhorn
The path mostly leads to the right, behind the right edge of the Matterhorn, through all… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Matterhorn
From circle to the right Rock Climbing
3+
Matterhorn
Start with a light corner between Matterhorn and Alcazar. A long traverse (several bolts… Rock Climbing
5
Matterhorn
Great and technical route. 1st Ascent T. Čada, May 16, 1984 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
8/8+
Matterhorn
To the left of Inside Out Fingers, directly across three new rivets, then connecting to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Matterhorn
To the left of the supermarket. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Matterhorn
Boulder at the hook. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Matterhorn
1. FA first ascent from below Míla Pletánek and P. Novák, 5. 4. 84, 1st RP T. Čada, 16. 5… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
4
Matterhorn
Ascent via steps, crack and slab. The lower piton is wisely cemented in place, as it… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
5
Matterhorn
From the Journey Through the Mirror, traverse to the upper part of Nashroad. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Matterhorn
Through a broken corner over a wedged rock and about 4 pitons to a rib, traverse to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun +1

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