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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

5
Matterhorn
From the Journey Through the Mirror, traverse to the upper part of Nashroad. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Matterhorn
Climbing "Advokátův konec" (grade 4) on Matterhorn is a significant undertaking, despite… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Matterhorn
Through a broken corner over a wedged rock and about 4 pitons to a rib, traverse to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun +1
1
Skála v Kozle
Crack behind the Silvestris route, piton with sling. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
1
Skála v Kozle
Up the wall between the ČaPí and Kozí stezka routes. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
1
Divadýlko
Further to the right of the route Špejbl 2 bh with a loop. Do not climb! Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Lom u cesty
Start as desired between Dwayne Dibley and Polymorf Emocuc. Up under the overhang (bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Lom u cesty
Start arbitrarily to the second bolt and then along the edge or through the middle.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Lom u cesty
Start to the right of Eskalátor. Following the line of quickdraws to the ledge and then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Lom u cesty
To the right of Poklice, name written on the rock. Abseiling back is possible with a 70m… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Lom u cesty
From the inscription on the rock before 16 BH to the rappel point. Abseiling back is… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Korno
Second route to the left of the upper corner. First pitch "Jessie", a small boulder… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Korno
Follow the route "Jes" (9 bolts) to the maillon and further up the white vertical wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Aniččina stěna
Directly up the corner with a crack to the abseil point to the right of the summit book. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Aniččina stěna
Start to the left of the Koutek (Corner). Left to the 2nd bolt and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Aniččina stěna
Start with Fata Morgana, diagonally right to the 1st bolt, up and at the 4th bolt right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Aniččina stěna
Along the third line of bolts from the left. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9
Aniččina stěna
Completely to the left following the bolts straight up, originally climbed on own gear Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9-
Aniččina stěna
Up over 5 bolts. Second line of bolts from the left. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8/8+
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-/8
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-
Centrál
Up the wall over overhanging steps to the abseil point Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9-/9
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
9-
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7/7+
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1

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