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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

5
Sloní hlava
In the second half of the route, traverse to the left below the corner crack c. A and why… Rock Climbing
8-
Sloní hlava
A brutal start on loose, brittle rock over an overhang, followed by a vertical wall with… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Sloní hlava
Same as the route Rozvodové řízení (Divorce Proceedings), but from the 2nd ring directly… Rock Climbing
5
Sloní hlava
Up the wall, partially following the bolts, under the overhang and traverse down to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Sloní hlava
The path is approximately 20 m to the right of Jelínek's Bridge. Along the crack under…
8-
Sloní hlava
The 'And Why' route ascends via 3 bolts where it sharply traverses right, then left and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Sloní hlava
Through the corner, higher up to the right to the pitons, traverse to the ring (guidebook… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Sloní hlava
Up an indistinct pillar and into an indentation. Back onto the edge, through a crack… Rock Climbing
5
Sloní hlava
From the right along the indentation upwards and traverse left under the overhang. Rock Climbing
6
Sloní hlava
Along the wall, still very slightly diagonally right past five bolts to the bolt at the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Vertical wall
8+
Sloní hlava
By way of "Bílé ticho" (White Silence), the right-hand variant then leads directly into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9
Sloní hlava
On the White Silence route to 5bh. Directly to the 1st bolt, slightly left to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+
Sloní hlava
To the right of the route 'Bílé Ticho' (White Silence), through the middle of a distinct… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Sloní hlava
Up the wall to the ring. Up to the small crack, and through it into the corner (hexes)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9-
Dušičková stěna
Start next to the latrine and directly through the overhanging wall into the slab to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Dušičková stěna
From the second third of the starting ramp straight up (piton) to the small balcony… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Dušičková stěna
Access via a prominent chimney gash between the 5th pillar of Dušičková Wall and the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Dušičková stěna
Start 5m to the right of the previous route. Up the brittle corner formed by the spur … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4+
Dušičková stěna
Start behind the right edge of the wall up the chimney onto the spur protruding from the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Dušičková stěna
To the right of the start of Bolavý zub through the right part of the overgrown recess up… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
9
Dušičková stěna
Access the Lady Di Wall (8 bh) to the summit, starting from the right of the path. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Dušičková stěna
N at the lowest point of the wall, across two bolts and a piton slightly left, then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Dušičková stěna
The start is in the lowest part of the Dušičká wall, about 9m to the right of the cave.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Dušičková stěna
From the clock under the first circle, traverse left upwards to the piton and diagonally… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Dušičková stěna
From the platform below the overhanging corner (sling), directly upwards and via the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
7-
Dušičková stěna
Climbing "Berounský rychlík" (7-) on Dušičková stěna is a quintessential experience for… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Dušičková stěna
From the ring on the Dušičková route up along the crack to the exposed block, further… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5+
Dušičková stěna
Start like the Dušičková route to the platform under the overhanging corner. From there… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5+
Dušičková stěna
Start from the highest foot of the wall to the right up the steps to the traversing ramp… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5+
Dušičková stěna
The route follows the corner crack bordering the black smooth slabs in the middle of the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2

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