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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

3+
Pohádka
Right of the tunnel, up the stairs to rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+
Big wall
Across 4 bolts completely on the right (ceiling). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Big wall
Easier route. At the end of the traverse, you can clip a bolt from the variant 'Duši v… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5-
Big wall
Nice variant Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4+
Big wall
The easiest for the end Rock Climbing Route in shadow
7-
Big wall
Boulder variant Rock Climbing Route in shadow
8+
Big wall
Right of the edge, past 2 bolts under the overhang and directly over it (rivet), then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Big wall
From the left of the edge, traverse below the crack, through it under the roof, and over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Big wall
If you want to fly, then go straight to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
9-
Big wall
A heavily overhanging edge past 4 bolts. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Big wall
From a powerful boulder to crimps. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
9-/9
Big wall
To the left of the large corner (Route "Hubte...") via the wall (bolted) and over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Big wall
A distinctive corner, full of strong experiences, to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Big wall
Through a crack below the ceiling, over it and along the wall, and another small roof to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Big wall
Hard climbing on small holds, definitely for colder weather. At the connection point to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
10-
Big wall
Smooth, slightly overhanging wall over three bolts; from the third one, traverse right to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Big wall
A variant, so there's something to climb, a strength workout on good holds. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
9/9+
Big wall
Start via "Paličova dcera", along the edge of the overhang to the right past a bolt, up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Big wall
From the 3rd bolt of the route 'Tažný koně', go right over additional overhangs (3 bolts)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+
Pilíř
POVL (loose rock), brittle. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
7
Pilíř
In the pillar's corner. Very brittle. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Pilíř
Logical connection of the easiest places Rock Climbing Route in shadow
7-
Pilíř
Allegedly climbed before as a boulder. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6+
Pilíř
Bouldering route on an overhang with good holds Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6+
Pilíř
A nice powerful boulder problem around the first one. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6-
Staré skály
Located in the corner to the right of the 'Drama' building, across incredibly ugly,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
3
Staré skály
Through the corner to the left of the smooth slab with a final shattered overhang. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4
Staré skály
The slab and the corner to the right of "Threat from the East" Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6
Pilíř
By the smooth pillar to the right of the small cave. Fragile. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
5+
Staré skály
Start about 1 meter from the edge, left to the circle, and directly up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2

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