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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

9/9+
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8/8+
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8/8+
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8/8+
Centrál
A route for Tomáš Truhelka :-) Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9-
Centrál
Climbing 'Tescoma' (9-) was a brutal and exhilarating experience. The route, a testpiece… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Centrál
Štěpa, a 7- grade climb in the Centrál area, presents a challenging yet rewarding… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9-/9
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9/9+
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-/8
Centrál
Less strenuous and probably easier than Sokolík, but also very nice. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Centrál
It leads from the rock block along a smooth wall, along a thin crack that leads slightly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Čelo
Directly over the boulder Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7
Pod vodopádem
Across the starting boulder directly along the protection, at the top slightly from the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Pod vodopádem
To the right of the Strom route directly up to the rappel point Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Pod vodopádem
Slightly overhanging start and finer holds. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7/7+
Pod vodopádem
A nice long route. In the middle there is a tree stump. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Pod vodopádem
In the fall line of the hole where the book is. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Pod vodopádem
Along the edge, under the overhang, over it and to the rappel point Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Pod vodopádem
To the right into Achilles' edge along a small crack through the wall into the slab and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Pod vodopádem
In memory of Honza Hampl. / Ascent after an indistinct pillar (completely to the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7/7+
Pod vodopádem
Farthest to the left, same as C. Route for Honzík. Then slightly to the right. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Stěna za klášterem
Secured with 9 pitons, 2 rings, bring hexcentrics, first ascent in classic style with… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6-
Rameno Trojúhelníka
From the bolt right downwards to the beginning of the crack (hourglass), follow it to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Trojúhelníková stěna
Approach as for the previous route, but continue diagonally right upwards along ledges to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Trojúhelníková stěna
Directly up over the roof of the overhang. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Křížová stěna - pravá část
From the 2nd ring, down the ledge and traverse the wall further to below the overhangs,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Křížová stěna - pravá část
Approach either from the lowest point of the wall via an indistinct depression to a ledge… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Křížová stěna - střední část
From the 2nd ring of the April route, right upwards and along a ledge into a large corner… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Křížová stěna - levá část
Start as with the original route, but instead of left, slightly right upwards over a…
4
Vaňasova stěna
From the small cave, it is possible to traverse down and in an arc back right above the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay

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