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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

7
Pupek
Far left along the edge of the northwest wall over three bolts to a bolt below a grassy… Rock Climbing
5
Pupek
To the left, up the NW wall slightly diagonally right and then directly over pitons. Rock Climbing Danger
6
Pupek
Start with "Lesní cesta" (Forest Route), from it higher up to the right by traversing… Rock Climbing
5
Pupek
By the "Old Route" under the overhang and left traversing under it into a crack-corner… Rock Climbing
4
Pupek
Rock Climbing
3
Pupek
Rock Climbing
4
Pupek
Rock Climbing
4+
Pupek
Rock Climbing
2
Pupek
Rock Climbing
4+
Pupek
Rock Climbing
6
Kotlík
Crack completely on the right on the Cauldron Wall on a small massif called Kotlík. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
7
Kotlík
Through the middle of the small massif called Kotlík, to the right of the route "All… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6
Kotlík
Completely on the left on the Cauldron Wall on a small massif called Kotlík (Small… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Textile belay +1
4
Štítek
Rock Climbing
5
Štítek
To the left of "Staré" (start shared with the Visačka route, then straight on).… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
4
Štítek
Start as for Stará Cesta and chimney further to the ring. Around the ring with a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Štítek
The ascent starts via a crack in the right third of the base, then first wall-like and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+
Štítek
Completely to the right. Rock Climbing
9
Štítek
Rock Climbing
8
Štítek
Entry variant from the right and further along the Ancient Path. Rock Climbing
8+
Štítek
Climbing 'Visačka' (grade 8+) in 'Štítek' is a formidable challenge for any serious… Rock Climbing
5
Štítek
Rock Climbing
9
Štítek
traverse above the ground from the route "Prastará" to the right and then along the… Rock Climbing
9-
Štítek
To the left of Prastará over 3 bh. Rock Climbing
5
Štítek
Between the straightening of SC and Jezuitska, over 3 dark bh and around the clock to the… Rock Climbing
4
Štítek
In the left part of the wall, over a flake, then left and through a crack in the corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
První stěna
2m up the chimney to the left to the piton, through the crack in the slab to the tree on… Rock Climbing
3
První stěna
Through the widening chimney n.t. Rock Climbing
3
První stěna
Through the chimney slightly to the right around the tree n.t. Rock Climbing
7
Homole
Valley Route. From the cave at the base, diagonally right across two grassy strips to the… Rock Climbing

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