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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

7-
Paraple
Start via the notch, up the wall over the ledge and up the wall to the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Paraple
From the rock into the notch, up the wall over the ledge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Paraple
Up the wall over a prominent hole to the ledge and directly to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Paraple
Up the wall and a broken corner to the ledge, up the small wall to the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Paraple
Start via the route 'In Good Company' to the 1st bolt. From there, under the blunt edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Paraple
From the left up the wall and recess to the ledge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Paraple
Up the wall and corner, right to the belay of the route 'Climbing Lime'. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Paraple
Right of the Retro route, straight across 2 bolts to the rappel on the ledge (bolt with… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Majdalena
Start 5m to the right of the cave edge. Along a small rib and over a small overhang… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Majdalena
Start approx. 4-5 m next to route Majdalena. Up a small corner under a small overhang,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
7-
Paraple
Left of the Retro route, straight across 2 bolts to the rappel (bolt with maillon). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Paraple
Start higher up on the left. Up the wall and corner to the terrace, up the small wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Majdalena
From the right edge of the cave directly up to a ledge, up a smooth small wall over two… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Majdalena
Start at the left edge of the cave. Up a sloping, overhanging crack (hexes) and along… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Ivanka
Start at the left edge of the wall. Up the notch, then along the edge to a grassy balcony… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Ivanka
Start in the fall line of the wall's summit. Up a narrow crack (hexes) to a wedged block.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
10-
Pupek
Via the "Iron Maiden" route to its last bolt. From there, however, diagonally right up… Rock Climbing
5
Ivanka
Start approx. 8m to the right in the fall line of prominent overhangs, up the corner over… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
8
Pupek
Second from the left in the northwest face over four bolts directly to the chain under a… Rock Climbing
9
Pupek
Sixth route from the left in the northwest face over four bolts under a small overhang… Rock Climbing
8-
Pupek
Third route from the left in the northwest face over four bolts directly to the chain… Rock Climbing
8+
Pupek
Fifth route from the left in the northwest face over four (five) bolts directly to the… Rock Climbing
7+
Pupek
Fourth route from the left in the northwest face over four (five) bolts directly to the… Rock Climbing
6
Pupek
From the first bolt of "Helen's Route" diagonally right to the second bolt of "Route for… Rock Climbing
6
Pupek
To the right of "Helen's Route", directly up the wall over two bolts and a piton to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
10-/10
Pupek
After climbing almost the entire Fotogenická, traverse right into Gnocchi alla Romana and… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Pupek
Rock Climbing
5+
Pupek
Far right, start from the bushes. Directly up the wall. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Pupek
It goes all the way from the ledge up over one bolt, it's just a slightly harder airy… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Pupek
Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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