Overview
Last updated 2024-05-11
Grade 5
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Difficulty
5
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
The 'Superdirettissima' on Plotna, a true classic graded 5 (UIAA), stands as an iconic test piece for climbers. This multi-pitch route is renowned for its sustained climbing, often on exposed slabs and features demanding precise footwork and confident movement. While not extreme by modern standards, the route's length and airy pitches require focus, good route-finding skills, and a steady head for heights. Protection can be varied, adding to the adventurous feel typical of such a classic line. Each pitch offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape, culminating in a magnificent panorama from the summit. The feeling of exposure on some of the higher pitches is exhilarating, making you feel truly connected to the rock. Completing the 'Superdirettissima' is a significant achievement, leaving climbers with a profound sense of satisfaction and unforgettable memories of a superb vertical journey.
Rules
Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2019-2029, drawing, OP CHKO Český kras authority.
The access road along the Berounka River is closed due to the risk of falling rocks from the playground in Srbsko to Kačák.Nature protection: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature protection documents: Decision 2019-2029, appendices, authority OP PLA Bohemian Karst
- The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
- Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
- Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
- No climbing on wet rock.
The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.
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