Overview
Grade: 5
Total time: 21 hrs
Climbing time: 18 hrs
Approach time: 2 hrs
Exit time: 45 mins
Show topo 
Length: 140m
Rope Length: 60m
Quickdraws: 20
Climbing 'Der Dummschwätzer - Brandstattpfeiler' (Grade 5) on the Brandstattpfeiler is an experience that lingers. The name itself, 'The Blabbermouth,' always intrigued me – would it be an overly talkative route, or one that quietly demands your full attention? As it turned out, it was the latter, speaking to us through the elegant language of rock.
Standing at the base of the Brandstattpfeiler, the morning air was crisp, carrying the scent of pine. The rock, a warm, textured grey, looked inviting. Though a Grade 5, we knew it wouldn't be trivial; these classic routes often hold subtle challenges that keep you honest. The first pitch immediately set the tone: solid, confidence-inspiring holds on a mix of slabs and small cracks, allowing us to find our rhythm and truly connect with the rock.
As we ascended, the exposure grew, and the Brandstattpfeiler truly lived up to its name, a prominent pillar offering breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. The climbing felt intuitive, a fluid dance of finding the perfect foot placement, feeling for that bomber handhold, and trusting the friction. There were sections that demanded careful route-finding, subtle shifts in rock texture hinting at the path of least resistance. Each move felt purposeful, a conversation with the mountain, perhaps 'Der Dummschwätzer' guiding us upwards with its silent wisdom.
Reaching the summit felt like stepping onto a grand pedestal. The panorama was vast and humbling, the silence profound, punctuated only by the distant calls of birds. Descending, we carried the quiet satisfaction of a well-climbed route. 'Der Dummschwätzer' had indeed 'spoken' to us – not with idle chatter, but with the eloquent language of challenge, focus, and the pure, unadulterated joy of movement on timeless rock. A true classic.