Climbing "Pohádka na hraně" (Fairy Tale on the Edge), graded 8+ (UIAA), in the Centrál sector is a formidable challenge and a true test of any climber's skill. The route, whose name evokes a sense of delicate beauty juxtaposed with danger, demands a blend of technical proficiency, power, and mental fortitude.
The rock itself is often characterized by sharp edges and small holds, forcing climbers to rely on precise footwork and calculated movements. The crux, typically located somewhere in the middle or towards the top, often involves a particularly insecure sequence requiring powerful crimping and exceptional body positioning. Success hinges not only on physical strength but also on the ability to read the rock, find subtle footholds, and commit to each move with unwavering confidence.
"Pohádka na hraně" is not just a climb; it's an experience. The feeling of topping out, after having overcome the physical and mental obstacles, is incredibly rewarding, solidifying a sense of accomplishment that lingers long after descending to the ground. It’s a climb that earns respect and remains a memorable milestone for anyone who attempts it. Preparation is key: solid finger strength, endurance, and a good head are prerequisites. But even with these, "Pohádka na hraně" will present a challenge that pushes you to your limits and rewards you with the sweet taste of victory – a true fairy tale achieved on the edge.
Rules
Nature conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Conservation Documents: NR Tetínské Rocks - MOP - 2023-2033, Nature Conservation authority Czech Karst PLA
Climbing is allowed year-round.
The sectors listed in the permit are open to climbers.
Climbing is only possible on existing routes, see the rock database.
The permit does not apply to mass events.
Parking for climbers is only possible in the meadow near the playground - coordinates 49.9483803N, 14.1098108E (Parking at the Church of St. John of Nepomuk and at the cemetery is no longer allowed.)
Nature conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Conservation Documents: NR Tetínské Rocks - MOP - 2023-2033, Nature Conservation authority Czech Karst PLA