Via Messalina - Val di Ledro

Climbing 'Via Messalina' (Grade 6/6+) on Cima Capi, overlooking the stunning Val di Ledro and Lake Garda, is an unforgettable multi-pitch adventure. This classic route on the impressive limestone walls of Cima Capi offers a full day out in a magnificent setting.

The approach typically starts from the vicinity of Biacesa or Pregasina, involving a pleasant walk through pine forests that gradually leads to the towering base of the south-facing wall. As you gear up, the sheer scale of the rock face becomes apparent, promising exhilarating exposure.

Via Messalina itself is a testament to traditional climbing, though it has seen some modern re-bolting. Graded 6/6+ (UIAA VI/VI+), it presents a variety of climbing, from technical slabs and vertical sections to engaging traverses. While well-equipped in places, the route retains its 'old-school' character with some longer run-outs between bolts, requiring a confident lead and occasionally a small rack for supplementary protection. The rock quality is generally excellent, providing solid holds and good friction.

Each of the numerous pitches brings you higher, revealing ever-more spectacular panoramic views of the turquoise Lake Garda shimmering below and the rugged peaks surrounding Val di Ledro. The exposure builds gradually, culminating in a truly airy experience on the upper sections.

Reaching the spacious summit of Cima Capi is immensely rewarding, offering breathtaking 360-degree vistas that stretch from the Alps to the Dolomites. It's a perfect spot to savor the achievement and the grandeur of the landscape.

The descent is a significant part of the adventure. It's a long but well-marked walk-off, often taking an hour or two, winding down through varied terrain back towards the starting point, providing different perspectives of the mountain. Via Messalina is highly recommended for climbers seeking a classic, exposed, and thoroughly rewarding big-wall experience in the Garda region.

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