Overview
Grade: 6-
Total time: 12 hrs
Climbing time: 9 hrs
Approach time: 2 hrs
Exit time: 1 hour
Show topo 
Length: 1,600m
Rope Length: 50m
Quickdraws: 11
The alarm shattered the pre-dawn silence, signaling the start of another alpine adventure. Our sights were set on the Eastern Geislhorn and its classic route, the 'Gletscherbäurin' (grade 6-). A long, winding approach, first through dew-kissed meadows, then across challenging moraine, finally led us to the impressive granite walls bathed in the first light of dawn.
The 'Gletscherbäurin', graded 6-, promised sustained climbing, and it certainly delivered. Each of its numerous pitches offered a unique challenge – delicate slab climbing, exposed cracks that demanded precise footwork, and powerful sections that tested our strength. The rock quality was mostly excellent, providing solid holds and reliable friction, a joy to climb on. With every meter gained, the exposure grew, offering increasingly breathtaking views of the surrounding glaciers and jagged peaks. The crux pitches were indeed demanding, requiring full concentration and graceful movement, pushing our technique and nerve to their limits. The feeling of climbing high above the valley floor, roped together with a trusted partner, was immense and deeply satisfying.
Reaching the summit cairn was a moment of pure triumph and relief. The panoramic views stretched endlessly, a sea of peaks under a vast blue sky. After a quick bite and a shared glance of quiet satisfaction, we began the careful descent. The rappels and scrambling sections required careful navigation but went smoothly. Back at the hut, tired but utterly exhilarated, we reflected on another unforgettable day in the mountains. The 'Gletscherbäurin' truly lived up to its reputation – a challenging yet incredibly rewarding ascent, leaving us with indelible memories.