Overview
Grade: 4
Total time: 5 hrs
Climbing time: 2 hrs
Approach time: 2 hrs
Exit time: 2 hrs
Show topo 
Length: 140m
Rope Length: 50m
Quickdraws: 5
Climbing the "Direkte Nordwand" (Direct North Face) on the Östliche Hahnenkammspitze (Eastern Hahnenkammspitze) is a true alpine classic, graded IV (UIAA). This route offers a captivating experience on the cooler, often shaded north face, making it a good choice for warmer days. Despite its moderate grade, the climb is sustained, requiring solid foundational rock climbing skills and comfort with exposure. The rock quality is generally excellent, providing good friction and reliable holds. As you ascend, the views of the surrounding Tannheimer Berge become increasingly spectacular, offering a rewarding panorama. The route provides a mix of cracks, slabs, and ledges, often with a traditional feel, meaning protection is primarily via natural features and requires an understanding of placing gear. The ascent culminates on the summit of the Eastern Hahnenkammspitze, providing a fantastic sense of accomplishment. The descent typically involves navigating the normal route, which often requires careful route-finding and potentially some scrambling or downclimbing. This route is a superb option for climbers looking for a classic alpine adventure without extreme technical difficulties, but demanding good physical condition and alpine awareness.
