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Letzte Ölung - Festkogel Südwand

Austria | Styria | Ennstal Alps | Festkogel SW-Wand

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Overview

Grade: 7

Total time: 9 hrs

Climbing time: 4 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 3 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 325m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 10

Letzte Ölung – what an evocative name for a climb! Translating to 'Last Rites,' it hints at the seriousness and perhaps the committing nature of this route. Located on the impressive Festkogel Südwand (South Face) in the Gesäuse, this grade VII (UIAA) climb is a true alpine classic. It's a demanding limestone climb, characteristic of the Gesäuse: steep, often sustained, and requiring good technique. While generally well-equipped with bolts, the spacing can be 'alpine,' meaning you'll need to be comfortable with some runouts between the protection. The rock quality is superb, offering excellent friction and intricate holds. The crux pitches are typically steep and technical, demanding precision and endurance. As you ascend the south face, the exposure grows, and the views across the Gesäuse are breathtaking, especially on a clear day. Climbing 'Letzte Ölung' is an engaging and rewarding experience. It's not a sport climb; it requires a strong head for heights, efficient movement, and a good sense of rhythm. The descent typically involves rappelling, which can be an adventure in itself. It's a fantastic objective for climbers looking for a challenging alpine rock experience at grade VII, combining physical demands with mental focus in a truly stunning environment.

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