Overview
Grade: 5+
Total time: 13 hrs
Climbing time: 7 hrs
Approach time: 3 hrs
Exit time: 3 hrs
Climbing the "Deye-Peters - Gamsmutterturm Nordkante" (grade 5+) on the Gamsmutter-Turm (Torre delle Madri dei Camosci) is a classic alpine experience. This route, known for its sustained difficulty and exposure, offers stunning views and demanding climbing on solid rock. The North Ridge presents a mix of crack climbing, face climbing, and stemming, requiring solid technique and good route-finding skills. Being a 5+, it necessitates confidence on this grade, as some sections might feel harder than expected, especially with a pack on your back. Protection is generally good, but runners are essential to avoid rope drag on the often traversing sections. The descent usually involves rappelling down the route or a nearby descent line. This climb is a rewarding challenge for experienced climbers looking for an adventurous day in a beautiful alpine setting.
