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Teufelspfeiler - Prisank

Slovenia | Julian Alps | Prisank

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Overview

Grade: 5+

Total time: 10 hrs

Climbing time: 7 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 1 hour

Show topo Route topo

Length: 600m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 10

The 'Teufelspfeiler' – Devil's Pillar – on the majestic Prisank (Prisojnik) mountain in the Julian Alps is a name that immediately evokes a sense of challenge and dramatic beauty. Graded 5+, this classic alpine route is a testament to the adventurous spirit of mountaineering. Ascending the Teufelspfeiler is an immersive experience. Each pitch unfolds with its unique character, from demanding technical sections requiring precise footwork and handholds to more exposed traverses where the breathtaking panorama of the surrounding peaks opens up below. The limestone rock often provides excellent friction, but the route's length and the alpine environment demand stamina, focus, and efficient rope management. The 5+ grade signifies a climb that is well within the reach of experienced rock climbers, yet it offers enough challenge to feel truly earned. It’s not just about physical strength; it's about route-finding, managing exposure, and working seamlessly with your climbing partner. Reaching the top of Prisank via this iconic pillar is incredibly rewarding, offering not only spectacular views across the Julian Alps but also the profound satisfaction of having overcome a significant alpine objective. It's a route that stays with you, a true highlight of Slovenian alpine climbing.
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