Overview
Grade: 5-/5
Total time: 5 hrs
Climbing time: 2 hrs
Approach time: 1 hour
Exit time: 2 hrs
Show topo 
Length: 260m
Rope Length: 60m
Quickdraws: 8
Climbing the 'Südverschneidung' (South Arête) on Geiselstein is a classic alpine experience, offering stunning views and engaging climbing on solid rock. The route is graded 5-/5 (UIAA) which translates roughly to 5.7/5.8 in Yosemite Decimal System, making it suitable for experienced climbers comfortable on traditionally protected routes. The South Arête follows a prominent rib that rises directly from the base of the Geiselstein peak. Expect a mix of face climbing, stemming, and some exposed traverses. Protection is primarily achieved by placing your own gear, including cams and nuts, in cracks and fissures along the arete. Some older pitons may exist, but reliance on them is not recommended. Careful route finding is crucial, as variations exist, and straying from the intended line can increase the difficulty. The descent usually involves rappelling from the summit or downclimbing via a different route. Prepare for an alpine start, variable weather conditions, and the need to carry all necessary gear, including ropes, protection, and appropriate clothing. The overall commitment of the climb, combined with its scenic setting, makes it a highly rewarding adventure.
