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Morgenstund - Gimpel Südostvorbau

Austria | Tyrol | Allgäu Alps | Gimpel Südostvorbau

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Overview

Grade: 5+

Total time: 6 hrs

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 2 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 200m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 10

Climbing 'Morgenstund' on the Gimpel Südostvorbau is a quintessential multi-pitch experience in the heart of the Tannheimer Tal. Rated 5+, it strikes a perfect balance between challenge and pure enjoyment, making it accessible to climbers comfortable with the grade while still offering rewarding pitches that demand attention and good technique.

The name 'Morgenstund' (Morning Hour) often hints at the best time to start, catching the cool air and first rays of sun on the predominantly south-east facing rock. The route typically offers solid limestone, good friction, and engaging movement across slabs, cracks, and sometimes short overhangs. Exposure increases with height, culminating in breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding Tyrolean landscape, including the majestic Gimpel peak itself.

Route-finding is generally straightforward, but attention to detail is always key on a multi-pitch. Each pitch builds anticipation for the next, leading to a satisfying top-out. The descent usually involves a series of exhilarating rappels, bringing you back to the base with a sense of accomplishment and tired but happy muscles. It's a memorable climb, perfect for a long summer day, combining physical exertion with stunning alpine beauty.

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