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Südverschneidung - Sebenkopf

Austria | Tyrol | Allgäu Alps | Sebenkopf

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Overview

Grade: 6-

Total time: 5 hrs

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 2 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 135m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 11

The "Südverschneidung" (South Ridge) on Sebenkopf is a well-regarded, classic alpine climb in the Wetterstein mountains. Graded at 6- (UIAA) or approximately 5.7/5.8 (YDS), it offers a satisfying and exposed route for experienced climbers. While not exceedingly difficult technically, it's a committing climb that requires good route-finding skills, solid alpine experience, and a head for heights. The rock is generally good, though some sections can be loose.

The route typically involves several pitches of sustained climbing along the prominent South Ridge. Expect exposure from the start, with impressive views down into the valleys below. Protection is mostly good, with a mix of fixed pitons and opportunities to place your own gear. The key to success is careful route selection to stay on the easiest line and efficient transitions between pitches. Be prepared for changing weather conditions, as the Wetterstein mountains are known for their unpredictable nature.

**Important Considerations:**

* **Experience:** This is an alpine climb, not a sport climb. Good multi-pitch experience, including gear placement and anchor building, is essential.
* **Weather:** Check the weather forecast thoroughly before heading out, and be prepared to bail if necessary.
* **Gear:** Bring a standard alpine rack, including cams, nuts, slings, and appropriate personal protective equipment.
* **Route Finding:** The route is not always obvious, so be prepared to navigate and use your intuition.
* **Descent:** The descent typically involves rappelling and downclimbing, so be sure to factor this into your time estimate.

Overall, the "Südverschneidung" on Sebenkopf is a rewarding climb for those seeking a moderate alpine adventure in a beautiful mountain setting.

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