Overview
Grade: 5+
Total time: 4 hrs
Climbing time: 3 hrs
Approach time: 45 mins
Exit time: 30 mins
Climbing the "Dibona - Südostwand" (Southeast Face) on the Großer Falzaregoturm is a classic Dolomite adventure. This route, graded 5+ (UIAA), offers a challenging and rewarding experience on solid rock with breathtaking views. Expect sustained climbing, requiring good technique and stamina. The exposure is significant, adding to the thrill. The route generally follows a logical line up the face, often involving cracks, dihedrals, and slabs. Route finding can be challenging in places, so a good topo is essential. Protection is generally adequate, but some sections may require placing your own gear. After the climb, the descent usually involves rappelling and some scrambling, requiring careful attention to detail. A memorable climb for any experienced climber seeking a true Dolomite test.
