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SW-Rippe - Großer Rettenstein

Austria | Tyrol | Kitzbühel Alps | Großer Rettenstein

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Overview

Grade: 4

Total time: 8 hrs

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 3 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 305m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 6

The "SW-Rippe" (Southwest Ridge) on the Großer Rettenstein is a classic climb in the Kitzbühel Alps, offering a rewarding alpine experience for climbers comfortable with grade 4 UIAA terrain. This route is characterized by its sustained climbing on solid rock, interspersed with grassy ledges and scrambling sections. While not technically demanding in the hardest sections, the overall length and alpine environment require good fitness, route-finding skills, and confidence.

The approach typically involves a hike from one of the valleys surrounding the Rettenstein, leading to the base of the southwest ridge. The climbing itself follows the prominent ridge line, presenting a mix of slabby faces, steeper steps, and exposed traverses. Protection is generally good, with a combination of natural features and bolted anchors available. However, carrying a selection of cams and nuts to supplement the existing protection is recommended.

Expect a full day in the mountains. The views from the summit of Großer Rettenstein are spectacular, encompassing the surrounding alpine landscape. The descent often involves a combination of downclimbing and rappelling, typically following a marked trail or a descent gully. Careful planning and preparation are essential, taking into account weather conditions, gear requirements, and personal abilities. This route is a great introduction to alpine climbing for those looking to progress beyond single-pitch sport climbs.

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