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Overview

Grade: 6+

Total time: 20 hrs

Climbing time: 12 hrs

Approach time: 5 hrs

Exit time: 4 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 1,500m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 10

The Erich Vanis - Gedenkweg, a classic route on the Hahnenkammturm's impressive northwest arête, offers a challenging and rewarding alpine experience. Graded 6+ (UIAA), this route demands solid climbing skills, good route-finding abilities, and a head for heights. The climbing is primarily on solid, compact limestone, featuring exposed traverses, steep faces, and the occasional crack system. Protection is generally good with a mix of bolts and natural placements, but some runouts are possible, requiring confident climbing between gear. The views from the arête are spectacular, encompassing the surrounding Lienz Dolomites. A successful ascent requires a full day, alpine starting conditions knowledge, and a team well-versed in alpine climbing techniques, including belaying, rope management, and self-rescue skills. The route is typically climbed in summer and early autumn when the conditions are most favorable.

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