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Křížový pilíř, Hlavní skála (Vyhlídka) 3

Czech Republic, Bohemian-Moravian Highlands, Žďár Hills, Prosička, Hlavní skála (Vyhlídka)

3

Rock Climbing

Last updated 2024-03-26

Grade 3

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Difficulty
3
Rock Climbing
Location

49.64364, 16.19735

Climbing 'Křížový pilíř' (Cross Pillar) on 'Hlavní skála (Vyhlídka)' offers a quintessential experience in the unique Labské pískovce (Elbe Sandstones) region of the Czech Republic. Graded 3, this route serves as an excellent introduction to the traditional sandstone climbing style prevalent here.

Our ascent began at the base of the prominent pillar, where the rough, yet surprisingly solid sandstone greeted us. The initial moves were straightforward, leading to a comfortable ledge. The true character of 'Křížový pilíř' unfolded on the second pitch, involving exposed but well-manageable climbing around the pillar's edge. Protection was primarily established using classic sandstone techniques: 'UIAA knots' (knotted slings) and slinging natural features like hourglasses or small blocks. The exposure was exhilarating, providing breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding fantastical rock formations and the meandering Elbe river valley below. The climbing felt more psychological than purely physical, demanding precise footwork, confident smearing, and a deep trust in the friction offered by the rock. Holds are often subtle, requiring keen route-finding. Reaching the small, airy summit block was an incredibly rewarding moment.

From the summit, a short rappel quickly brought us back to the base of the main formation. From there, a well-marked, gentle path led us easily back down through the serene forest, completing a memorable day immersed in the distinct beauty of the sandstone towers.
Rules
Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area - Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves) - The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice: - Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes - Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration - Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration - Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors. OVK: first ascents are prohibited

Nature conservation: Climbing prohibited. Nature conservation document: Permit 2004, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy

Žďár Hills PLA – some crags lie in nature reserves with restricted climbing. Check the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

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