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Otova cesta, Hlavní věž - jižní stěny 4

Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas, Suché skály, Hlavní věž - jižní stěny

4

Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay

Last updated 2024-05-11

Grade 4

Climbing season

Restrictions in 5 month(s)

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
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No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
4
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Location

50.63665, 15.21245

Parking 335 m

50.63815, 15.21657

From the E via a crack and chimney to the fore-summit and to the bridge with a ring, or from the W part of the tunnel via the S wall over a ring to the bridge with the 2nd ring. Right upwards to the balcony, left into the chimney and up it to the summit.
Rules

Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps OP CHKO Český Ráj authority.

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Some routes on Sokolí věž are closed from 1 February to 30 June. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

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