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Climbing at Hlavní věž - jižní stěny

54 routes
2–9 grades

Part of Suché skály, Hlavní věž - jižní stěny has 54 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps OP CHKO Český Ráj authority.

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Some routes on Sokolí věž are closed from 1 February to 30 June. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.63815, 15.21657

6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the 2nd ring along the edge. Rock Climbing
5
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the 1st ring along the edge to the sloping plateau in the East wall and up the… Rock Climbing
5
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Up the corner to the balcony and up the wall into the recess. Over the overhang (piton)… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Along the edge to the left of the chimney, higher up diagonally left and back to the edge… Rock Climbing
4
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the South along the crack into the recess and through it over the overhanging block… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the balcony above the tunnel, step across to the inclined wall and up it to the… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Up the wall opposite Samotář to the small balcony to the 1st ring, over the overhang… Rock Climbing
5
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Up the crack to the balcony (loop), up the crack into the recess (loop) and through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
To the right of route no. 16, diagonally right and up to the 1st ring. Over a friable… Rock Climbing
9
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the chimney via the small pillar's wall over a ring onto the small pillar, via route… Rock Climbing
4
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the E via a crack and chimney to the fore-summit and to the bridge with a ring, or… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the left crack over the ring to the ledge and diagonally right to the piton. Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the overhanging crack (piton) to its end and diagonally right to the piton. Up the… Rock Climbing
8
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the crack to its end and over steps to the ring. Via an overhanging crack over a… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Through the depression over the ring to its end, traverse right to the horse and over it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the 2nd ring, right and through the depression of route no. 12 variation. Rock Climbing
6-
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
To the right of the chimney, via an overhanging wall along cracks (piton) to the ring.… Rock Climbing
6-
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Through the depression to the right below the overhang (protection), via a small pinnacle… Rock Climbing
7
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Through the depression directly to the ring, over the overhang along the double crack. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
To the right of the SW corner, via an overhang to the ring, right upwards via the wall… Rock Climbing
5
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Start below the NW edge. Over 2 overhangs to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the North wall over steps, higher up diagonally left into a crack and along it to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the "Stoperová válka" (Stopper War) path over the 1st and 2nd ring up to the large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Up the structured wall under the overhang (piton subsequently placed), via the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the Pilíř route, i.e., an overhanging crack and diagonally right (piton), higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
To the right of "Přehnané" (Exaggerated) up the wall and through the crack (loops)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the pillar between the chimney with wedged boulders and Dušička's right, over a bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Between the paths "Stoperová válka" (Stopper War) and "Polední spára" (Midday Crack)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Between the West Route and the West Crack, via the wall over a ring to the fore-summit.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the East via the chimney to the 1st tower, over the saddle to the 2nd tower, descent… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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