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Climbing at Hlavní věž - jižní stěny

54 routes
2–9 grades

Part of Suché skály, Hlavní věž - jižní stěny has 54 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps OP CHKO Český Ráj authority.

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Some routes on Sokolí věž are closed from 1 February to 30 June. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.63815, 15.21657

6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via a wide stem between Otova and Pilíř routes (sling, small hourglass) to the top of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the saddle in the left part of the wall along the crack and via the wall to the fore… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Up the overhanging wall to the 1st and 2nd ring, diagonally right into the chimney to the… Rock Climbing
?
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
To the left of the "New Way" up the wall via Bh to the ring of "Sloping Way". From there… Rock Climbing
7
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via path no. 19 to the small balcony, traverse right to the ring. Diagonally right up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
To the 1st ring of path no. 17 and a horizontal traverse in the ledge to the right to the… Rock Climbing
7
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Up the wall over the overhang (piton), higher up along the small cracks to the ledge,… Rock Climbing
3
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the South up the sloping slab, then diagonally left into the chimney and through it… Rock Climbing
6-
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Up the wall and recess to the right of path no. 23 to the 3rd ring. Through the chimney… Rock Climbing
0
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Along the break into the overhang via a small crack and up it via pitons to the ledge.… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the ring of path no. 27, traverse left to the crack. Up the wall to the small crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the 2nd ring of path no. 32 (original L") directly to the 3rd and 4th ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the ring, via the crack over 2 pitons to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
To the left of route no. 19, via a small crack (1st ring - additionally placed) to the… Rock Climbing
7
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the crack to the summit without using the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing
8
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Through the middle of the pillar and via a sloping crack, higher up along the ridge. Over… Rock Climbing
7
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
m left before the summit, step onto the fore-summit into the wall. Up the wall, higher up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the ring, left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Rock Climbing
?
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
To the ring via the wall diagonally from the right. Rock Climbing
7
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the crack to the steps and into the recess below the overhang to the piton.… Rock Climbing
?
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the 1st ring, left through the depression to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the saddle via a wide crack in the middle of the W wall. Rock Climbing
2
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the saddle between the Main and Middle Tower, left behind the edge and over steps to… Rock Climbing

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