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Přímá JV stěna

Czech Republic | Jizerské hory | Jizerské hory | Polední kameny a Hlídači | Horní hlídač

Rock Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Friends

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Overview

Grade: 7/7+

To the left of the start of the SW wall by an overhanging fissure and corner climbs, higher up slightly to the right into a traverse (slab) of the SE wall, from under the crack to the left at the edge by corner climbs directly to the top. (Note: 6-7 m above the ground the rock is mechanically damaged, probably after a piton was hammered out.)
Saxon classification VIIIb-c)
Note on history: The route was climbed by Milan Hložek and František Pery Šída in 1980, but it was not recognized by the Climbing Committee. They used one piton for protection. The protocol from this ascent has not been preserved in the archive of the Climbing Committee JLH. Then the route was climbed in 1986 by Petr Prachtel, who submitted a protocol as a first ascent. He mentions traces of a piton being hammered out. Subsequently, Hložek/Šída submitted a protocol again with the note that when Prachtel climbed the route, he wrote in the summit book that the route was free climbable. Therefore, the current view of the route is that Hložek and Šída are the authors and Petr Prachtel has the first repeat.
Rules

Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round Nature Conservation Documents: NPR Jizerskohorské bučiny OOP 2021 2025, OOP 2021 maps, OOP 2021 rocks outside polygons, OOP 2021 ice climbing, authority Nature Conservation Agency Jizera Mountains

Part of the terrain is in the Jizerskohorské Beech Forest National Nature Reserve. Climbing in the reserve is allowed year-round only on designated objects and in areas defined in the map appendix. It is not allowed to modify and change the surface of the rock, ice climbing is allowed with sufficient ice thickness in designated sectors. Drytooling is only allowed in the quarry in Oldřichov. Bird nesting must be reported. - Magnesium is only allowed from grade VIIIb of the Jizera scale.

Nature protection: Climbing on rocks in NPR allowed all year round. Detailed information for individual rocks. Nature Protection Documents: NPR Jizerskohorské bučiny OOP 2021 2025, OOP 2021 maps, OOP 2021 rocks outside polygons, OOP 2021 ice, OP body CHKO Jizerské hory

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