Overview
Grade: 4
Total time: 5 hrs
Climbing time: 4 hrs
Approach time: 45 mins
Exit time: 45 mins
Show topo 
Length: 615m
Rope Length: 60m
Quickdraws: 6
Climbing the 'Jaufenspitze Nordkante - Jaufenkante' (North Ridge - Jaufen Ridge) on Jaufenspitze (also known as Cima Gallina) in the Sarntal Alps offers a truly classic alpine rock climbing experience. Graded IV (UIAA), this route is not technically extreme, but it demands solid alpine skills, including efficient rope management, route-finding, and a good head for heights. The ascent provides sustained, enjoyable rock climbing on generally good limestone, often offering surprisingly good friction. The route follows a logical and often exposed line up the distinctive ridge, presenting a mix of slabs, cracks, and short steeper steps. While the difficulties are moderate, the exposure in sections, especially higher up, adds to the adventurous feel. Climbers are rewarded with stunning panoramic views of the surrounding Sarntal and Ötztal Alps, making it a highly recommended classic for those seeking a rewarding alpine adventure in a beautiful setting.
