Up an intricate corner around a birch (slings) and further along a crack to a balcony. From there along the wall to the right directly up to the summit.
! new description differs (especially classification - IV): along a corner-chimney to the balcony (bolt added), along the corner crack to the second balcony (under the edge of the wing), from there easiest along the gully to the saddle and to the summit. Or along the crack in the corner under the wing to the right to the summit.
Variants: from the gully through the center of the wing wall (bolt added) to the summit.
or: along the valley edge of the wing over a concrete shaft to the summit.