Overview
Grade: 5+
Total time: 4 hrs
Climbing time: 4 hrs
Approach time: 30 mins
Exit time: 15 mins
Length: 225m
Rope Length: 70m
Quickdraws: 10
Climbing the 'Wasserfallkante' (Waterfall Edge) on the Kampermauer is an iconic experience, renowned as a true classic in the region. Graded 5+ (UIAA), it presents a sustained but incredibly rewarding challenge for climbers comfortable with multi-pitch limestone routes.
The name itself, 'Wasserfallkante,' perfectly describes its character: an airy, exposed ascent up a prominent arête. The route offers incredibly varied climbing – from delicate slabs requiring precise footwork to engaging cracks and steeper sections that truly provide a sense of exposure and height. The limestone is generally of excellent quality, offering solid holds and reliable friction throughout.
Each pitch builds on the last, leading you higher with increasingly spectacular views across the surrounding Sengsengebirge mountains. While the 5+ grade is consistent, the moves are often intuitive and flow well, demanding good balance and technique rather than brute strength. The key sections are well-protected, making for a confident ascent.
Completing the 'Wasserfallkante' leaves you with a profound sense of achievement and unforgettable memories. Descent is typically by abseil or via a walking path from the summit area, depending on the chosen top-out. It's a must-do route that perfectly blends technical climbing with breathtaking alpine scenery, truly earning its classic status.