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Kávovar, Kávovar 7/7+

Czech Republic, West Bohemia, Žihle, Sklárna Jih, Kávovar

7/7+

Route in shadow

Last updated 2024-03-26

Grade 7/7+

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Difficulty
7/7+
Route in shadow
Location

50.06477, 13.33683

Parking 738 m

50.07102, 13.33337

Climbing "Kávovar" in the Kávovar cave is a truly memorable experience. This route, typically graded around 7/7+ (French grading), is a testament to the power and beauty of tufa climbing. It's a physical battle from the start, often involving steep, sustained overhangs and pumpy sequences. You'll encounter a variety of holds, from the namesake 'coffee maker' tufas to crimps, pockets, and slopers that demand precise footwork and body positioning. The crux often lies in navigating a particularly challenging sequence involving either a long reach between tufas or a demanding power endurance section. The rock is generally solid, offering excellent friction, but requires careful inspection as some holds can be polished from years of ascents. Successfully clipping the chains at the top after battling through the crux brings a immense sense of accomplishment. "Kávovar" is a classic route that will leave you with burning forearms and a lasting appreciation for the unique style of climbing found in this Czech climbing area.
Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

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