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Nordostkante und Gamsplatte - Kleine Gamswiesenspitze

Austria | Tyrol | Gailtal Alps / Lienz Dolomites | Kleine Gamswiesenspitze

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Overview

Grade: 4

Total time: 6 hrs

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 2 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 310m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 7

The 'Nordostkante und Gamsplatte' route on the Kleine Gamswiesenspitze is a classic alpine rock climb, rated UIAA Grade IV. Located in the picturesque alpine setting, this route offers a truly rewarding experience for climbers seeking a moderately challenging yet highly scenic adventure.

The ascent typically begins at the base of the prominent Nordostkante (Northeast Ridge). This section quickly gains exposure, providing exhilarating ridge climbing that demands good footwork and a steady head as the panoramic views dramatically unfold. Following the ridge, the route transitions onto the 'Gamsplatte' (Chamois Slab), a distinctive and often delicate slab section that requires precise friction climbing, feeling more about balance and finesse than raw strength.

Rated UIAA Grade IV, the route is sustained, presenting a variety of climbing challenges from airy ridge traverses to technical slab movements. It's a climb where efficient rope management, effective use of natural protection, and a solid understanding of alpine climbing techniques are paramount. The rewards are immense: sweeping panoramic views of the surrounding peaks, the profound quiet solitude of the high mountains, and the deep satisfaction of mastering a truly classic alpine line. Completing the 'Nordostkante und Gamsplatte' is a testament to alpine skill, offering not just a physical challenge but a profound connection with the mountain environment. The descent, typically involving scrambling and perhaps some abseiling, is an integral part of the day, bringing the full alpine experience to a close.

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