Overview
Grade: 3+
Total time: 8 hrs
Climbing time: 5 hrs
Approach time: 3 hrs
The traverse of "Schartenspitze Südgrat und Kleiner Winkelkogel Westgrat" (South Ridge of Schartenspitze and West Ridge of Kleiner Winkelkogel) is a classic alpine rock climbing experience located in the majestic terrain surrounding Kleiner Winkelkogel. Graded at UIAA 3+, this route offers a fantastic long ridge climb rather than a series of distinct pitches.
The '3+' signifies sustained scrambling and easy climbing, with occasional short, steeper sections that might feel more like a low 4 or high 3 for those unaccustomed to alpine ratings. You'll encounter a mix of solid, grippy rock and some looser sections typical of alpine terrain. It demands good route-finding skills, a steady head for heights, and comfort with significant exposure. While the technical difficulties aren't extreme, the length, commitment, and the remote alpine environment make it a significant undertaking.
The route provides breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and valleys, making it a highly rewarding experience for climbers seeking a true alpine adventure rather than just a technical challenge. Standard alpine gear is recommended, including a rope (single or half), quickdraws, slings, a small selection of nuts/cams for occasional protection, and helmets are essential. Light approach shoes or flexible mountaineering boots are often preferred for the varied terrain. The descent typically involves a combination of downclimbing and hiking.