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Údolní stěna, Kniha 7

Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise, Hruboskalsko centre, Dračí skály, Kniha

7

Rock Climbing, Textile belay

Last updated 2024-05-11

Grade 7

Climbing season

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Difficulty
7
Rock Climbing Textile belay
Location

50.54697, 15.19578

Along a crack to the 1st ring. Up the smooth wall left to a balcony in the NW face (clock). Along the Falcon-like notches to the 2nd ring and along a crack to the summit.

L. Vodháněl - J. Janků (1954): We ascend the southwest left vertical crack until its end (belay loop). From there, we traverse along a narrow slab left to the 1st ring. Further up the smooth wall to the fore-summit. Before us is now a wall with vertical interrupted notches. Along these notches, preferably via the "Falcon-like section," we ascend with extraordinary difficulty under the friable overhang, where a piton is driven in. From there, we enter the left crack and ascend it to the summit.

Rules

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps OP authority CHKO Český Ráj

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

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