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Overview

Grade: 8+

Total time: 9 hrs

Climbing time: 4 hrs

Approach time: 3 hrs

Exit time: 3 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 400m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 10

The Kraxenberg South Face is an imposing wall, and among its many lines, 'Unter den Schwingen des Adlers' (Beneath the Eagle's Wings) stands out as a true test piece. Graded 8+ (UIAA VIII+), it's a route that demands not just physical prowess but immense mental fortitude. Our ascent began with the crisp alpine air biting at our cheeks as dawn painted the upper reaches of the rock. The initial pitches offered a steady warm-up, a dance on sharp limestone edges, but it was past the third bolt that the route truly unveiled its character. The 'Eagle's Traverse,' an exposed slab with incredibly delicate moves, felt like hovering on the very edge of the void, with thousands of meters of air beneath our feet. The crux, a powerful, sustained overhang on tiny crimps, required absolute precision and a deep well of stamina. Each placement of hand and foot was a deliberate commitment. High on the face, the views were breathtaking – a vast panorama of jagged peaks and deep valleys, putting the sheer scale of our vertical world into perspective. The name 'Unter den Schwingen des Adlers' felt incredibly fitting; you truly felt as if an eagle could glide past at eye level. Reaching the summit after hours of intense climbing was a moment of pure elation and relief, the satisfaction palpable. The descent, a series of careful rappels down the route, was as much a part of the adventure, bringing us back safely to the valley floor, leaving us with indelible memories of an extraordinary climb.

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