Overview
Grade: 8-/8
Total time: 2 hrs
Climbing time: 2 hrs
Approach time: 15 mins
Exit time: 3 mins
Show topo 
Length: 95m
Rope Length: 70m
Quickdraws: 14
Climbing 'Sancho Pansa' on the Lackenkopfwand in Maltatal, Austria, is an iconic multi-pitch granite climbing experience. Graded 8-/8 (UIAA), this route presents a significant challenge and is considered a benchmark for climbers operating at this level. The climbing is incredibly varied, featuring everything from technical slabs and intricate crack systems to exposed traverses and pumpy overhangs, all on superb, solid granite. With typically 10-12 pitches, it's a full-day adventure, demanding excellent endurance, precise technique, and mental fortitude. While generally well-equipped with bolts, the route still retains an adventurous alpine character, with some sections requiring a cool head and perhaps the occasional traditional gear placement to supplement the fixed anchors. The descent is usually by rappelling the route itself, adding to the commitment. 'Sancho Pansa' offers an unforgettable journey through a stunning high-alpine environment, making it a highly sought-after classic in the Austrian Alps.
